[jakedev]

jakedev on November 25, 2023 at 1:10 pm · in reply to: Max Strength for Ice/Mixed Climbing Workout Question #82543

I guess you referring to PE and PE+1.

So PE says “Using the PE do 5 sets of 4 reps (per side if appropriate)
Take a full 3 min sitting recovery between these sets.”
– Enough weight and intensity to make 6 reps desperate.
– With that weight and intensity I will do 4 Reps of Tool Rows with 5s lockoffs at top per side —->3 min rest —-> repeat.

ARCing I do in old heavy ice boots but just use hands. Keeps my fingers in shape and the same forearm conditioning I feel. Really its just get on a very easy wall and go for 10- 20 min. I use it as a warmup (5-10min) and do it as a separate workout (20-30 min). You could do it on a hang board too with foot assist. Intensity is 4/10 or something easy. Supposed to be easy not pumping out. Uphill athlete has a several articles on ARCing in their climbing if you look that their climbing articles.

[jakedev]

jakedev on November 15, 2023 at 7:15 pm · in reply to: Max Strength for Ice/Mixed Climbing Workout Question #82285

James,

Q1: So the way I interpret it is that the 4 hangs is considered 1 set (4x pull ups, 4x 10 sec ice axe hangs with 1 minute rest between each, 3 minute rest and repeat 6 times). Yeah it took me awhile. With 1 arm hangs so I did 10s each side then 1 min rest. When I add in the ARC and Core Warmup and did Max Step Ups my whole Max WO took almost an hour a half (mostly resting between sets).

Q2: Sounds like your plenty strong to do 1 arm incline pullups. Maybe back off the weight when you do it first to get a baseline so you don’t injure yourself (like I did)
– When you do it 1 arm lock off at the top for 3-5 sec (maybe swing your upper arm).
– When going to 1 arm I would start with elevating your legs at bodyweight, then once horizontal add weight

I use this https://www.power-systems.com/shop/product/versafit-belt?variantid=10387 to adjust my weight intensity. Mimics gear on the harness fairy well.

[jakedev]

jakedev on August 2, 2023 at 10:35 am · in reply to: Hill sprints + ME outdoor workout #80173

So this article is probably relevant.

Endurance and Power Don’t Mix (in the Same Workout)

I think if possible separating them to separate days is the best option. You can show up fresh and get the most from the workout (both Max and ME). If you only have time for 1 day of these exercises (kids, job, etc) maybe do one in the morning (probably the Hill Sprints) and do the ME later in the afternoon or evening allowing a full recovery. Cheers.

[jakedev]

jakedev on April 14, 2023 at 7:39 am · in reply to: Flat running crossover to uphill running #77162

So yes flat road running will help your uphill travel in the long run to a point. Particularly with building some aerobic base. I live in a mountain town and still do alot of road running while the snow melts in the hills (still snowing actually). Supplement with 1-2 leg strength session (Chamonix Fit is the shit). After you build her base well you can have a period of 4 weeks of some ME work or Z3 (inline treadmill, stairs with a pack, etc.).

Jake

[jakedev]

jakedev on April 14, 2023 at 7:32 am · in reply to: How does strength training affect aerobic recovery? #77161

So I have found that climbing hard definitely affects my aerobic progression. I live in an outdoor mountainous area so it is hard to train and still “recreate” at the same time.

When I was trying to crank up my aerobic volume to 6 hours a week there was fatigue that affected my rock climbing and my recovery suffered. I had to take an unplanned week off just to be functional for work and not in a bad mood all the time.

Some solutions
If building your aerobic base is important to you, dial down the “hard climbing”. Substitute it with easy ARCing for longer periods at the gym, TR soloing, or going out with the family. I found that the easy volume climbing complements the easy volume running/hiking. I also include the ARCing in that weekly volume of aerobic activity.

Jake

[jakedev]

jakedev on April 14, 2023 at 7:24 am · in reply to: Does uphill athlete recommend incline treadmill or stair master? #77160

I guess the it’s the always irritating answer of…. it depends.

For me it I just try to be as sport specific as possible which is a recurring theme in these forums I have found.
In the spring I use the treadmill alot to get in shape for trail running (when I have to be indoors that is).
In the fall I have a big pack and go up and down my garage stairs. If it was a machine I think the step mill is the best answer but they are very expensive and not every gym has them.

The “star masters” with the rotating feet I think are the least specific and realistic. They can get your going for Z1 and Z2 but your legs aren’t getting the same workload. Better than nothing though.

Jake

[jakedev]

jakedev on February 8, 2023 at 6:00 am · in reply to: Training “crash” #75484

So I’ve had a similar issue. Basically sounds like you’re overdoing it and probably been for a few weeks if even easy climbs and workouts can’t be finished.

I work night shifts as well and some can be insanely busy. I learned the hard way that my training volumes can only be so much. At the very high end I can do total of 12 hours of training a week (climbing and running) and sometimes my cycles will be 2 weeks of training then a week of rest.

I think with varying shift work I am limited to this training volume and do not have the luxury of doing more volume without running the risk of “bonking” and being very fatigued at work, which is not good for patients or fair to coworkers.

My advice. Dial it back and take studious notes about your sleep, what your shifts were like (busy, stressful, etc?). This way you can establish a maintainable training volume.

[jakedev]

jakedev on February 4, 2023 at 2:08 pm · in reply to: Heart rate drift very little in heart rate drift test #75360

So I ran into that same issue. Won’t bore you with the actual numbers. So what I did was just repeat the same AeT test 2 weeks later. The issue for me was I had alot of stress with other things going on and did not approach my AeT test very well rested. Not sure if that is a factor for you.

Either way if I am unsure about the numbers or my effort during a test I will repeat it with the exact same grade and speed so I have several data points to make a decision. Hope this helps.

[jakedev]

jakedev on February 4, 2023 at 2:05 pm · in reply to: Snowshoe TSS #75359

So approaches to ice climbs are similar in nature. Usually some post holing up the gully to the climb and then it depends how much of a boot pack is in before you get there. I lap the workout when I start going off trail and will add 30 TSS per hour of post holing and dial it back if there is a good boot pack. It really inaccurate but I just try to stay consistent with it. I think that’s the best that can be done.

[jakedev]

jakedev on April 29, 2022 at 1:05 pm · in reply to: What to do when recovering from ME workouts #66385

I have the same issue with the gym based ME WO. I did a-couple things. I’ll just list them out and I apologize if I sound like an infomercial

– Starting at the prescribed 6 sets was too much and could barely walk for 2 days so I initially had to reduce to 4 sets and work my way back up. Same with Step Ups or Weighted Hill Climbs. If I can’t somewhat recover to do light workouts in 48 hours I am doing too much.

– Immediately after the WO I consume a blend of Recoverite, collagen protein and whey protein. (Hammer Nutrition)

– I put in compression leggings after a cold shower and wear them to bed (2XU)

– After some stretching I use pneumatic leg massager/compressors for an hour while cuddling with the wifey (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B095HSM39T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

– Swimming worked wonders but there is no pool in my town anymore.

I was still sore but a combination of these factors helped me recover faster

[jakedev]

jakedev on November 28, 2021 at 10:54 am · in reply to: training with leg weights…. ? #59972

I too use ankle weights during my ME build up in the fall with the weighted Hill climbs. The idea was to mimic the ice boots and deep snow post holing effort. Not exact but I felt it helped and prepared me. You are correct that there isn’t much mention of it in UA books or plans that I’ve seen. Like anything I guess if it works for you and feel like you recover well then go for it. Will be following as well.

[jakedev]

jakedev on October 8, 2021 at 3:54 pm · in reply to: Pa:HR as a “check” on regular training runs? #57829

What you are doing seems to make sense to me. I just separate my run into 30 min laps (after the WU) and divide them.

I believe the important part is making sure that your effort and pace is the same throughout the run. Then your HR will let you know if the effort is aerobic or not.

[jakedev]

jakedev on September 24, 2021 at 12:46 pm · in reply to: Hip/low Back Pain #57289

Hi bud,

So I have had similar imbalance issues after a bad herniated disc. I think my QLs were really imbalanced and tight. My chiropractor recommended this author named Peter Egoscue. Link below. It’s a long road and not an overnight fix, but in the long run it worked for me. I only have occasionally back tightness now after long runs or hikes. Hope to works for you.

Jake

[jakedev]

jakedev on September 16, 2021 at 6:19 pm · in reply to: Max Strength takes too much time #57109

Hi ricci,

So if you look to the right under Forum index you’ll see list of topics and within each is all the forum posts regarding that topic. There is Max Strength link and there are alot of good conversations to clear some stuff up.

I think most people use supersets in the interest of time unless there is a specific weakness to work on. Because you are right. Doing each exercise individually with 3-5 min rest between sets takes way too long

1 min of bench squats and 20 sec of pull-ups is still too much, save that for when you do ME. Just before the page you copied you’ll see the following quotes below (LindseyTroy’s point about only doing 4-6 reps).

“Use a load that would allow you to do no more than five reps. (Or use 85–90 percent of your one repetition max.)”.

House, Steve; Johnston, Scott. Training for the New Alpinism (p. 283). Patagonia. Kindle Edition.

AND

“Use sets of one up to a maximum of four repetitions.”

House, Steve; Johnston, Scott. Training for the New Alpinism (p. 283). Patagonia. Kindle Edition.

[jakedev]

jakedev on July 30, 2021 at 4:27 pm · in reply to: High Mileage and Muscular Endurance #56072

A good question. I have always tried to do a abbreviated ME Leg Circuit (2 sets of each exercise) every 2 weeks for maintenance. That or a low level of the Chamonix fit sessions. That being said as my volume has gone up even these abbreviated maintenance workouts are probably harder than they should be.

I don’t have any answers for you, just that I have had to skip the maintenance strength when I have high volume weeks due to fatigue. Be interested in anybody else’s anecdotes or feedback.

Jake.