Max Strength for Ice/Mixed Climbing Workout Question

  • Creator
  • #82272

    Hi all,

    Hoping someone could clarify a couple of questions on the below workout:

    Training for Ice and Mixed Climbing

    Q1: Couplet 1 requires 6 sets of 4 reps of pull ups and ice axe hangs with a 3 minute rest between each set.

    The explanation for ice axe hangs reads: “Do 4 sets of one-armed, 10-second hangs. Use enough weight that you can only hang a max of 12–15 seconds. Rest 1 minute between hangs. Keep your shoulder activated and tense throughout the hang. Do not hang totally relaxed on your shoulder joint with this much load.”

    My question is whether 4 hangs is considered as 1 set of the couplet? i.e. am I supposed to do 4x pull ups, 4x 10 sec ice axe hangs (with 1 minute rest between each), 3 minute rest and repeat 6 times? That would make for 24x 10 sec hangs, which seems quite high? Or am I supposed to do 4x pull ups, 1x 10 sec hang, rest 3 minutes and repeat 6 times.

    Q2: how do increase resistance for incline pull ups? Currently I am doing them on axes through olympic rings with my feet on a balance ball, nearly horizontal and with 9kg hanging off a harness…and I can do 8-10 reps. Should I move to one handed pulls? Or has anyone found anything else to throw into the mix?

    Thanks for any advice or comments!

  • Participant
    jakedev on #82285


    Q1: So the way I interpret it is that the 4 hangs is considered 1 set (4x pull ups, 4x 10 sec ice axe hangs with 1 minute rest between each, 3 minute rest and repeat 6 times). Yeah it took me awhile. With 1 arm hangs so I did 10s each side then 1 min rest. When I add in the ARC and Core Warmup and did Max Step Ups my whole Max WO took almost an hour a half (mostly resting between sets).

    Q2: Sounds like your plenty strong to do 1 arm incline pullups. Maybe back off the weight when you do it first to get a baseline so you don’t injure yourself (like I did)
    – When you do it 1 arm lock off at the top for 3-5 sec (maybe swing your upper arm).
    – When going to 1 arm I would start with elevating your legs at bodyweight, then once horizontal add weight

    I use this to adjust my weight intensity. Mimics gear on the harness fairy well.

    jamesdunn on #82376

    Thanks for your thoughts Jake, that’s really helpful. I think from re-reading the TftNAlpinism book chapter again, how we’ve interpreted it is correct – 4 hangs constitutes 1 rep, repeat for 6 sets.

    I’ve been doing sets of 4 rather than 6 and even then (with Scott’s Killer Core workout as a warm up) this takes 1.5 hours!

    Can I check when you’re doing the lock-offs in the third couplet, are you just doing 1 hang (on each arm) as a rep? Rather than following the 4 hangs method per rep above?

    And can I also ask if you’re ARCing on your tools as a warm up? Are you following a procedure for this that I could take a look at somewhere? I’d love to implement some ARC training but haven’t looked into it in much detail yet – I understood it was more for building aerobic capacity rather than strength though? Or is this part of your warm up? Any resources on ARCing on ice tools would be much appreciated.

    Thanks again,

    jakedev on #82543

    I guess you referring to PE and PE+1.

    So PE says “Using the PE do 5 sets of 4 reps (per side if appropriate)
    Take a full 3 min sitting recovery between these sets.”
    – Enough weight and intensity to make 6 reps desperate.
    – With that weight and intensity I will do 4 Reps of Tool Rows with 5s lockoffs at top per side —->3 min rest —-> repeat.

    ARCing I do in old heavy ice boots but just use hands. Keeps my fingers in shape and the same forearm conditioning I feel. Really its just get on a very easy wall and go for 10- 20 min. I use it as a warmup (5-10min) and do it as a separate workout (20-30 min). You could do it on a hang board too with foot assist. Intensity is 4/10 or something easy. Supposed to be easy not pumping out. Uphill athlete has a several articles on ARCing in their climbing if you look that their climbing articles.

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