A Climbing Passion Reignited after Two Decades Brian CarlockSometimes when you get slapped around, you have to keep stepping forward. I repeated this mantra to myself as I stumbled over the snowbound talus encircling Chasm View Lake, in Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP), Colorado, en route—slowly—back to my bivy higher in the cirque. I was bonking, hard, due to a combination of the attitude and improper provisioning. I’d brought only Gu energy gels and a single liter of water for a guided outing on Kiener’s Route (5.4; easy snow) up the east face of Longs Peak: 3.18 miles in technical alpine…
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Committing to the Brathay 10in10 I have no interest in doing just one road marathon again. But I’d do the Brathay 10in10 again. That probably sounds counterintuitive—that I’d rather do 10 road marathons in 10 days than one in a single day—but the commitment and endurance demanded by the former attract me far more than the idea of pushing myself as hard as possible over 26.2 miles.I was inspired to sign up for the Brathay 10in10 after becoming a trustee of the Brathay Trust, a charity dedicated to using interventions—including outdoor activity—to improve the life chances of young people who…
How the CEO and AI pioneer Rene Morkos realized his dream of climbing Denali.
Kazu Ishidera is 51 years old and the store manager at REI San Carlos, in California. In June 2022, he and his longtime friend and mentor Hikari Mori (Mori-San), 59, summited Denali (20,310 feet) in good style, pulling off their ascent of the West Buttress during a stable weather window. The two have been climbing partners since 2000, when they met as part of the team that opened REI’s first—and only—international store, in Tokyo, Japan. They typically enjoy classic mountain routes and moderate multi-pitch climbs, and often pick their goals from the book Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. Ishidera…
How Satish Gogineni climbed Everest and Lhotse in a 96-hour push It’s impossible to know you’ll climb a mountain like Everest (8,849 meters) before you actually do so—there are so many variables, like weather, the condition of the route, your health and response to the altitude, and objective hazards like serac falls and avalanches. But as he acclimated on the hike in to Everest Basecamp in spring 2022, Satish Gogineni, a vice president at Bank of America, felt optimistic. A diehard runner since 2007 who has raced in 14 major marathons and two 50 K races as well as a…
How the retired physician Jonathan Sugarman made it to Camp 3 on Everest despite a pre-trip forced layoff. Note: We recently received word that Dr Jonathan Sugarman died on Monday while attempting to climb Mount Everest with a Washington-state guiding service. While we were not working with Jonathan for the past year we previously had worked with him for 3 years. We knew him as a good, earnest guy. He was humble and he really cared about the Sherpa people. He also had a whimsical side. He brought a plastic trumpet to basecamp to practice! In Jonathan’s memory please remember…
The aim of this article is to describe the preparation, training, and experiences I had while preparing for and racing backcountry ski mountaineering efforts on Mount Tallac, Shasta, and Hood during the 2021-2022 season. There are also passing references to me running Mount Shasta for time (4/1/22). I conducted all high intensity training for these efforts on a stairmaster or incline treadmill, a link to my workouts is at the bottom. Training This winter, my training was primarily focused on preparation for mountainous 100 mile efforts during summer 2022. I wanted to have an off season and intentionally placed ski…
A Race Report from the 2022 Tahoe 200The 200-miler is the most exciting discipline in mountain running. The distance is alluring because it requires the endurance and strength demanded by an ultra-marathon and the problem-solving required on a multi-day fastpacking expedition. The discipline is a puzzle. Each race presents a challenge that, once overcome, allows some pieces to fall into place while never quite revealing the full picture. For me, tackling this puzzle amidst a 60-hour work week as a leader at a start-up and among all of life’s chaos and entropy has been a challenge and a privilege, as…