Alan-Maybe we’re thinking of two different kinds of ‘pump’. I’m not advising for a blow-out pump like i can not hold on anymore. I am talking about a nice feeling of a good flow of blood to the forearms, but one that allows one to continue climbing. I would agree that a full “pump” would be anaerobic. Maybe we need a grading system 1-10 for pump with 10 not beling able to hold on any more. I’m looking for a 2-3… Does that help?
Steve House
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KeymasterKeymaster
Alan,
In a sense, but for me if I’m climbing on anything that is not overhanging I never get pumped and this is the case with a lot of people. So in a way, yes, the intensity is increasing because the climbing is harder. But I think this makes the training much more specific to my forearms, and secondarily, my core. Which are the two muscle groups I care about and two that don’t get worked by ARCing on anything vertical or less than vertical.This will not be the case for everyone.
Make sense?
KeymasterUmbrella. Best waterproof and most breathable. Anyone who has trekked to BC through a late monsoon will agree. Bigger the better.
Keymaster@alan_russell
per workout.Keymaster@deadpoint
I have my workouts show up in my iCal and I am quite sure that some of my coached athletes have their workouts show up in their google calendar. So honestly, I don’t know what to tell you other than to contact TrainingPeaks support or maybe try to ‘redo’ the whole process. I’m sure there are already help articles on the TP support pages.KeymasterTSS probably isn’t super useful in the case of hangboarding, but I do record it as 20-30 TSS because I’m a geek.
The more important thing with hangboard workout is (as with strength workouts) spacing the recovery. Meaning, making sure there is enough time between them for super-compensation to occur. For most people I think 2/week is about all that is reasonable assuming you’re also rock climbing (indoors our out) 1-2 days per week. I generally recommend 3 days between hangboard workouts and that’s how Josh Wharton has them spaced out in his rock climbing training plans as well.
KeymasterMy theory on the bulletproof coffee and/or protein only breakfast before training is that it give an athlete some feeling of satiety, fullness, and not having that is hard. But remember, no matter what the macro-nutrient (fat, protein, or carbs) it’s all calories to the body. “Black Coffee” is really code for: your caffeine source without ANY calories. Hope that clarifies.
Keymaster@jakob.melchior Using my treadwall on a fairly steep setting I have migrated to having people start with 1 minute on, 1 minute rest. Try that for 10-12 rounds. If that feels okay then go 2′ on/1′ rest and then 3′ on, 1′ rest. This is much more time efficient than the 30 minutes sessions which are assuming the climbing is not overhanging since not many people can climb overhanging terrain for 30 minutes straight.
KeymasterAnd BTW, you can order the book from us, we still have stock. I’m unsure of the cost of shipping to the UK though:
https://uphillathlete.com/shop/KeymasterHi Allan,
The current re-print is just that, a re-print. I’m not sure how many re-prints we’ve been through now, but quite a few. Though we did have a few minor corrections, even in this most recent reprint.I have been told that as of this week (9 October) the books have landed and are on their way to the distribution center in Reno, Nevada, USA. I’m not sure what that means for book availability in the UK as I don’t know if they first go through the US or if we have books shipped from Hong Kong direct to the UK/EU. Sorry I can’t give you a definitive answer on this.
Regarding a second edition of Training for the New Alpism: We will do a full-fleged update and second edition at some point. However, that is several years away at best.
On another note, we do have a NEW BOOK coming out, titled: Training for the Uphill Athlete. The release date this February 2019. You can pre-order (sorry this may be US site only) here:
KeymasterYou were doing it correctly by bringing both feet up. You can also step up and down off the side of the box to mimic cramponing up a steep slope in french technique.
KeymasterSee page 178 of Training for the New Alpinism, photo attached.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.KeymasterI consider down a great one-night stand but a poor long-term relationship. Down is best for weight/warmth when you’re only planning on one night out.
Hydrophobic Down has not panned out despite (I can personally attest to this as I had a front-row seat) millions of dollars spent investigating how to do it well. The ‘coatings’ on the down either wash or wear off very quickly usually leaving the down feathers worse off than they would have been without treatment (specifically they clump up). That, for now, is a dead horse.
Synthetic is still the way to go and getting better each year.
One caveat, do not buy a synthetic belay parka with a goretex shell, that totally mis-understands how a belay parka works to move moisture out of your clothing system.
RE the future, I’m currently in possession of a next-gen synthetic belay parka that is super warm and, as a full-size-all-conditions belay parka weighs about the same as a similarly insulated down parka. I’ve been testing this jacket for 2 weeks (full-disclosure: My day-job is Patagonia Ambassador)
I’ve worn synthetic parkas (mostly the DAS Parka) and pants (DAS and MicroPuff) on numerous 8,000 meter peaks climbs and summits as well as hundreds of days in Alaska and elsewhere. These jackets have literally saved my life many times.
What’s more, I consider a synthetic belay parka to be my winter-conditions outerwear. I don’t use goretex or similiar waterproof/breathable shells ever unless I know i’ll be in rain (ie. Scotland in winter). I still use a Houdini Jacket as my primary shell for almost all winter climbing and skiing. If i need more, I throw on a Hyper Puff Belay Parka which is basically all (winter) weather protection.
Hope that helps, I’m sure others will have opinions on this as well that will also be valid.
Keymaster@planetmarshaluk
Here are a couple good (and free) resources to consult for some ideas on simple workouts you could do while in Nepal:
I would try to incorporate grip training and some upper-body maintenance work about every 7-10 days during the Ama trip so you haven’t lost too much by the time you’re back. Not starting at a deficit will make a huge difference on the rest of your season.
Keymaster@mavpee To answer your question on moving workouts. Unfortunately you can only move workouts in the calendar if you upgrade your TrainingPeaks account to premium. I can understand why they do this, they offer a ‘freemium’ model and need to convert as many people as possible to paid subscribers. So if you want the drag-and-drop convenience of moving workouts, then it’s worth the upgrade, especially for a 24-week period.
IN the second half of this article there will be some really useful info for you to get the most out of that plan. Thanks for training with Uphill Athlete