Clara, I agree that the phases in the video are not well organized. I have been doing the inclined pull up progression followed by sets of hangs on tools. I believe this is correct (it’s been effective for me in years past).
Jim Prager
Forum Replies Created
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ParticipantJim Prager on October 20, 2023 at 8:44 am · in reply to: Mixed and Ice plan: tool hang reps confusion #81655ParticipantJim Prager on January 13, 2023 at 8:56 am · in reply to: 16-W Big Mountain: Heavy Pack Training #74605
There are ME workouts Weeks 10-15 that you need to “Carry enough weight so that the fatigue in your legs is the speed limitation…not your breathing.” It doesn’t say anything about a percent BW for these workouts.
ParticipantJim Prager on September 30, 2022 at 11:21 am · in reply to: Which city on the NA west coast for mountaineering #71189I’m a huge fan of Seattle (I’ve lived here for the past 20 years):
– We have good hiking, scrambling, trail running, rock climbing, alpine rock, classic mountaineering, technical mountaineering, and backcountry skiing. The only thing we don’t have is a good ice season.
– From downtown, I can be in the mountains in under an hour and the foothills even faster, which hard to beat for training and fun.
– During the summer, we are one of the driest places in the country, so it’s easy to get out most weekends.
– With a little practice in watching conditions, we can almost always ski good snow in the winter.
– The spring ski mountaineering season is long.Compared to the the other cities:
– I prefer the greenness of Western WA compared to CA, but we don’t get as much rain as Vancouver.
– We’re closer to mountains than the CA cities.
– Definitely a lot of mountain-related groups to join.
– There is more technical climbing closer to Seattle than Portland.
– Our traffic isn’t great, but it’s no CA bad.A few years ago, a buddy of mine, who loves maps and geography data, “proved” that was WA was the best state in the lower 48 because it had the highest density of prominent peaks (see attached table). 🙂
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You must be logged in to view attached files.ParticipantI’ve followed the same prescription that Mariner outlined above. However, I include a little maintenance general strength exercises in my max strength routine. This was on the advice of my physical therapist to help prevent some reoccurring problems. So my max strength routine looks like the following:
-Core Warmup (2 times through a circuit of four exercise)
-General Strength Maintenance/Warmup (2-3 exercises 10 reps each 1 set)
-Max Strength ComponentRight now, my general strength maintenance is single-leg RDLs, push-ups, and side squats. During the max strength phase, I don’t increase the weight over what I ended my general strength routine with. I just want to maintain these exercises, not push myself.
Then I move on to max strength couplets: pull-ups/Bulgarian split squats, dips/box steps, rows/lunges
ParticipantJim Prager on January 12, 2022 at 10:28 am · in reply to: Hip tightness through ski mountaineering #62018Hi Dada,
I’ve had this happen on occasion.
For me, it has occurred when I significantly step up the elevation gain of my tours quickly at the start of a season. In the field, I have “rolled” my hip flexors and quads with my skip pole and used the classic lunge stretch while squeezing my glutes hard. This seemed to help.
At home, I followed up with a soft ball on the iliopsoas, quads (esp. rectus femoris), and TFL.
Hope this helps,
JimParticipantHi Dada,
I ski with a Scarpa F1 that doesn’t have traditional buckles. However, I wanted to suggest checking out ENGO Blister Patches (https://goengo.com/). They go on the footbed or boot liner to reduce friction in areas where your foot slides a little. My wife discovered them while thru-hiking, and they changed my world.
Hope that helps,
JimParticipantHi Kyle,
I’ve had the test done at Real Rehab in north Seattle. I would definitely recommend them.
Cheers,
JimParticipantJim Prager on September 2, 2020 at 9:38 am · in reply to: Scott’s killer core with disk surgery #44713My therapist had me start with very easy variations of dead bug and build up. I don’t remember the exact progression, but it went something like this:
Arms at sides; pelvic tilt, hold
Arms at sides; knees bent, alternating slide feet on floor
Arms at sides; alternating heel lifts
Arms at sides; alternating leg extension
Arms at sides; alternating leg liftsOnce a level started to get easy, I’d add opposite arm moving with opposite leg.
Before I could move on to the next level, he’d put a towel under my back. If my lower back lifted, and he could pull the towel, I wasn’t ready for the next level. My therapist also put a blood pressure cuff slightly inflated under my back and force me to maintain constant pressure.
Once I was able to do strict sit-ups again, I feel like they’ve been an important part of keeping my core strong. Kayaker never feel right, so I’ve been finding other rotational exercises that don’t require rotation under load.
Good luck in your recovery!
ParticipantJim Prager on September 1, 2020 at 10:04 am · in reply to: Scott’s killer core with disk surgery #44700I herniated my S1/L5 disc in 2018. I was able to resolve it with a lot of physical therapy. Once I was allowed to get back to training, I was doing the easiest variation of each exercise then building one that got easy. Also, if an exercise hurt, I stopped and talked to my physical therapist.
Strict Sit-ups: I couldn’t add these for months. As this was hard on that joint.
Bird Dog: Great!
Windshield Wipers: bent knees
Plank/Three Point/Two Point: I started by building up my plank time. When I could do 1 min, I made it harder by switching to three point.
Kayaker: I still can’t do these pain free. I do a standing Pallof Press instead with a stiff band instead.
Bridges/Table: These were important to get my glutes firing and strong after so much time off. I started with frog bridges and progressed up to single leg. I still do these every morning.
Hanging Leg Raises: I started on the ground. I was also doing dead bugs every morning as part of PT (and still do).
Gymnast L-sit: I have to do this between chairs as my flexibility limits me.
Side Planks: I started with holds up to 30 s. Once I could do that I added dips of my hip. Eventually I added a rotation component with weight.Hope this helps.
ParticipantJim Prager on March 27, 2020 at 10:05 am · in reply to: Wrist-based heart rate monitors are useless. USE A CHEST STRAP. #39904I use a chest strap whenever possible and definitely get better data. The main exception is ski touring, where one cannot wear a chest strap with an avy beacon. I’ve noticed that my measured heart rate on ski tours can be off wildly. My approach has been to focus on my breathing and then eyeball my TSS to see if it seems plausible and adjust as needed. Any other strategies that you employ?
ParticipantJim Prager on November 25, 2019 at 9:52 am · in reply to: Picking exercises for max strength period #32638Hi Susan,
Since you’re training for mountaineering, I would consider focusing on single-leg exercises rather than the squat for your max strength period. For mountaineering, I typically use box steps as one and either split bench squat or lunges as the second one.
For upper body, I usually include pull-ups as one and either dips or inclined pull-ups as the second. Though if you feel bouldering is enough inclined pulling, maybe substitute push-ups instead.
Cheers,
JimParticipantIf you can’t leave the city, the Seattle All Stairs map might be helpful for planning routes. There are photos of the stairs with a count of the steps. I use it occasionally when I’m looking for something new and can’t make it to the mountains.
ParticipantI hadn’t been focused on mobility and paid the price this year. I should have been more focused on my hip mobility and ended up injuring my L5/S1 joint because that’s where I was making up the difference.
I’m still recovering, but my physical therapist recommended Kelly Starrett’s books Ready to Run and Becoming a Supple Leopard. The first one is very straightforward and focused on running. The second is much more comprehensive and complex, but there’s a lot of good information, especially when it comes to identifying mobility and treating issues. I’ve been doing by 10-15 min per day and now seeing a lot better hip function. I’ll definitely be keeping this up as I get back to training.
ParticipantA good friend of mine uses the Feathered Friends Vireo for his two kids (ages 4 and 6). While they are still young, he rolls the top down over the bottom so that it’s a double layer. This makes it a warmer bag and more kid-size. While this is potentially an expensive solution, he figures that the same bag will last them for 10-15 years. As they get older, they can use it more as it was intended: a single bag with a puffy jacket.
Hope that helps.
ParticipantHi Thomas,
Scott wrote about the fudge factors in a forum post: CTL/TrainingPeaks and TFNA. It’s a long thread, bud definitely worth a read.
For a quick reference, I pulled the two sections for you:
1) For any purely aerobic run/hike/ski we calculate the TP hrTSS and add 10 TSS for each 1000 vertical feet of gain for an athlete carrying no to minimal weight.
2) For the same workout but with a significant weight, say more than 10% of BW add 20TSS/ 1000 feet.
3) For hard muscular workout that has a very high local muscular endurance factor with a (disappointingly) low HR such as an uphill ME workout then I pick a number that reflects the recovery time before the athlete feels ready for another such workout. An ME workout for a high level athlete like David Goettler or Luke Nelson will take them days to recovery from and based on the actual workout I have assigned I will give these a TSS of 150-200.
4) For the TftNA general strength and core workout I give them a TSS of 50-70/hour.
5) For the TftNA Max Strength with core warm up I give these a TSS of 80-90/hour.What I do is make standard TSS’s for strength and climbing. For General strength I do 50TSS/hour. For Max strength I do 75-80TSS/hour. For climbing I do 50TSS/hr for ARC training (below on sight level). 80TSS/hr for climbing at near max level. Count only time on the rock.
As he notes in the post, whatever you do, be consistent so it’s relevant over time.
Cheers,
Jim