[David Thompson]

David Thompson on March 31, 2022 at 12:02 pm · in reply to: Integrating Rock Climbing Training Into an Annual Plan #64926

Hi Erik,

From the sounds of it you have good access to rock for a lot of the year. So that sets you up well to be prepared for the RGE. If you want to break this down into specific periods, there are two factors that you can use to guide you: your climbing volume (how many pitches you climb), and the intensity of the climbing you are doing (basically the grades you are climbing at). Whatever period you are in, you want to have the intention of increasing your movement vocabulary.

For a ‘base period’ you will want to amass a considerable amount of volume over the weeks and months. Work up to ~20 pitches/week, and go past this if you can. Also, over this time you will want to do a high variety of climbing — not the same routes over-and-over. During this period take note of routes that feel harder or easier and identify why. Take note that it’s not necessarily grades of climbs, but what they demand. You can do this for 8-12 weeks.

For a specific period, focus on two things. 1) climbing that is as similar as possible to the demands of the RGE. 2) the routes that you took note of in the previous 8-12 weeks that were personally challenging for one reason or another. You can also focus on this for 8-12 weeks.

Also, at least a couple of days a week, get out and do a long aerobic effort. This could be a long climbing approach or a big multi-pitch day, a long hike in the mountains with added weight (20-50#), or a long jog/run. Vary the amount of weight you are carrying, and don’t run long distances with a lot of weight on your back.

Hope this helps.

[David Thompson]

David Thompson on September 10, 2021 at 10:18 am · in reply to: Adding longer volume cardio to Wharton Climbing Program #56926

Hi,

You will want to give priority to the climbing training program, so that will mean that your mtn cardio should probably stay in upper Z1 to low Z2 to avoid taxing of the nervous system and keeping it potent for climbing training efforts. If you are not familiar with zones there are many resources on the website to help you determine your zones. Hope this helps.

[David Thompson]

David Thompson on April 16, 2021 at 7:17 pm · in reply to: Repeaters vs Max-hangs #53196

Age old question, indeed!

All of this depends on how much acutual climbing someone is able to do in addition to their hang boarding. If someone is able to do a lot of climbing then max hangs a couple times every 10-14 days will work just fine. If not, then hang boarding more often is prudent. The thing to remember is that climbing movement is the best way to apply any finger strength. So decoupling fingers away from what is done on the rock will only make it more difficult to bring that strength in the presence of full body movement when the time comes.

[David Thompson]

David Thompson on April 7, 2021 at 12:46 pm · in reply to: Improving climbing strength to weight ratio #52878

Hi Jay,

For strength-to-weight based activities like climbing, the important factor for any individual is to try to find the optimal weight for their frame. To answer your question, certainly focus on both building strength and perhaps some weight loss. But that said, there is one other — and probably the most important — factor. That is applying your strength, for whatever weight you are, to the rock. And that is gained through continually learning and refining proper technique. My recommendation is to increase your volume in the 5.9 to 5.10- range predominantly, and then flirt with 5.10c or d on occasion. That will likely get you there the quickest. Hope this helps.

[David Thompson]

David Thompson on March 15, 2021 at 1:54 pm · in reply to: Can I get to 5.13a? #52049

Hi Vik, the best way to improve onsight grade is to try onsighting more. If you are at a climbing area, take a specific day that is an onsight day. Attempt all of the routes within the grade range you are comfortable redpointing.
If you want to onsight 12- then consider being able to redpoint 12/12+. So have an onsight day at the crags, and a redpoint/projecting day.
You have a good set of basic workout equipment that will help you with basic strength. There are many exercises you can do with these, but emphasize pulling, fingers, and core.

[David Thompson]

David Thompson on March 11, 2021 at 9:47 am · in reply to: Can I get to 5.13a? #51906

Hi Bryce.

While one should never rule out the possibility, it is highly unlikely that you will be able to make such a progression in that short amount of time. That said, off-width climbing is very different from most other styles of rock terrain so climbing BFOB may just require a willingness to suffer.
In terms of specific exercises, perhaps doing upside-down core work with gravity boots and learning arm and leg bars and upside down climbing on a steep artificial crack may be your best bet.

[David Thompson]

David Thompson on November 23, 2020 at 10:43 am · in reply to: ARC protocol / progression on a boulder wall #47210

Hi,

Given the terrain you have available, that protocol will work fine. This isn’t ideal terrain for you for the long duration light pump aspect of traditional arcing, however changing the resting interval to never let yourself completely lose the pump between climbing intervals will initiate a more or less similar physiological response.

Add climbing time, reduce rest, add laps as you dial in the intensity to maintain the pump as you get more fit. Start with the protocol you outlined above and transition one or all of these from there.

Hope this helps.

[David Thompson]

David Thompson on October 29, 2020 at 10:36 am · in reply to: Optimal climbing and running strength and core training #46394

Hi there,

The programming that Scott alluded to (strength, power, and speed before endurance) is how you’ll want to program your days and weeks. The climbing-specific exercises that you mentioned–hang board, 4x4s, ARCing–are a good mix to get you started. In terms of core, anti-rotational exercises are very helpful for the demands of climbing. For examples of these do a search for Pallof press, or two- and three-point planks.
Hope this helps.

[David Thompson]

David Thompson on October 22, 2020 at 9:50 am · in reply to: Training plan help…. #46167

Here it is

FREE At Home Muscular Endurance Workout with Progression

If this doesn’t work then enter “Muscular Endurance” to the search bar in the upper right, it is the first article in the results.

[David Thompson]

David Thompson on October 22, 2020 at 9:41 am · in reply to: Training plan help…. #46162

Hi there,

Good question. I included a link below to our muscular endurance workout progression. That is a great place to start.

Uphill Athlete ME

[David Thompson]

David Thompson on October 22, 2020 at 9:36 am · in reply to: Hangboarding – Six month progression? #46160

Hi there,

What you will want to do is alternate the protocols more frequently. However a huge caveat is that your gains, irregardless of how you implement a hangboarding program, will result in plateaus in strength if all you are doing is hangboarding — do as much climbing movement as you can.

As I said above, I would recommend alternating between max hangs and repeaters more frequently. So if you are hangboarding twice a week, then max hangs on the first day, and repeaters on the next day.

[David Thompson]

David Thompson on October 13, 2020 at 11:37 am · in reply to: My first Ultra – Chiltern Ridge Ultra Trail #45949

Hi there whiteroserunning.
I am Dave a coach with UA. I would like to talk with you more about your experience. Please reach out to me: dave@uphillathlete.com

[David Thompson]

David Thompson on August 1, 2020 at 9:01 am · in reply to: Bouldering for Climbing Training #44014

Hi Joseph,

You are correct that bouldering stimulates the development of max-strength, and through that, ultimately endurance. As a general rule, max-strength type efforts produce the best training effect when they are performed when the body and mind are fresh.

A common type of max-strength/power session done on the bouldering wall is called “Limit Bouldering”. A search of this term on Google will direct you toward websites that outline how to do it. Limit bouldering is basically the process of working a 3-7 (+/-) move boulder problem that is at or above your current ability, and taking long rests in-between. I won’t go into great detail about the protocol because it can be found by a Google search. Just note that workouts of this intensity should be performed when relatively fresh, so in general, limit bouldering is best performed no more than a couple of times a week, in conjunction with other longer duration efforts that target endurance either afterward or on subsequent days of the week.

Hope this helps.

[David Thompson]

David Thompson on July 22, 2020 at 4:54 pm · in reply to: Guidance on Hypertrophy Stage for young athlete #43785

Emphasize climbing, and climb as much as possible. You can do anything on any given day, but if you do any supplemental exercises on climbing days, you will want to do them after climbing.

[David Thompson]

David Thompson on July 21, 2020 at 10:51 am · in reply to: Guidance on Hypertrophy Stage for young athlete #43749

Joseph, the most functional types of hypertrophy come from gains in mass as a result of doing your chosen activity. This is to say that you will gain muscle simply by climbing, and doing climbing-related strength work: Pull ups; Rows; Hang boarding; etc. If however, you sought to gain muscle by doing traditional bodybuilding tactics, the gains in muscle mass would not appreciably transfer over to making you a better climber, and would likely hinder you for the reasons that Scott mentioned.

I you can’t do a pull up, then band-assisted pull ups are also an option.

In terms of the aforementioned exercises (Pull ups; Rows; Hang board) 2-3 days a week, spread apart so you can have 48-72 hours rest in-between sessions is a good place to start.

Conclude the strength session when your form begins to break down, or you start to feel noticeably powered-down.

Hope this helps.