ARC protocol / progression on a boulder wall

  • Creator
  • #47180


    Due to lock-down in France I’m trying to come up with a decent ARC protocol when you have only access to a bouldering wall.

    Why ARC ? because 1) this is what I really miss as it’s not possible to go outside climbing and 2) I think I need it the most to complement strength sessions 3) it’s probably the most portable training I believe when you don’t know when you’ll get access to real mountains again.

    My wall is slightly over-hanging (20°), 3mx3m with a good variety of holds.
    I manage to do, say, 10′ of climbing using the biggest holds/jugs, but I’m getting pumped relatively fast and cannot achieve an “ARC goal” of 30mn easy, active climbing. Also I don’t want to fall into the power endurance training as it’s too early and not my limiter right now.

    Here is a tentative protocol that I tried to manage the pump:
    – 10′ easy warm-up, inc. 3×1′ climbing
    – 10x(1’45” climb + 1’15” rest)
    – 3′ rest
    – repeat 10x(1’45/1’15)

    I can do that every other day and sometimes twice a day without getting too sore the day after so I guess the intensity is about ok.

    My questions now:
    1) is it hopeless to do ARC on a boulder wall ?
    2) should I progress by reducing rest time ?
    3) or adding more laps ?

    PS: I’m doing it also with ice tools as my primary objective is ice this winter 🙂

Posted In: Climbing

  • Participant
    David Thompson on #47210


    Given the terrain you have available, that protocol will work fine. This isn’t ideal terrain for you for the long duration light pump aspect of traditional arcing, however changing the resting interval to never let yourself completely lose the pump between climbing intervals will initiate a more or less similar physiological response.

    Add climbing time, reduce rest, add laps as you dial in the intensity to maintain the pump as you get more fit. Start with the protocol you outlined above and transition one or all of these from there.

    Hope this helps.

    Eustache on #47211

    Thanks David, I’ll progress by increasing climbing time and reducing rest first then and see how it goes for a couple weeks 🙂

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