I think I might be looking for the unicorn of uphill athletes but researching this amazing site has gotten me a lot closer than I was a few months ago!
Based on the other forum posts, periodization is the best approach for performing well at rock climbing and trail running, especially ultras. I agree with this based on my experience trying to both rock climb hard and run ultras. I can’t do them both without getting injured or burnt out, especially as I get older.
From climbing, I’ve suffered some pulled rotator cuffs or deltoids and brachioradialis due to climbing in the last year so I want to strengthen to prevent injuries as well. From running, I’ve usually had weaknesses in hip flexors and glutes, and over developed quads or weak hamstrings.
I’m currently excited about rock climbing and pushing back in the 5.12 grade. My goals with climbing is to build a solid base at 5.12 and increase my endurance for longer routes at the 5.11 to 5.12 range and bouldering projects at Hueco Tanks this winter. Endurance and hanging on seem to be my weaknesses for this goal. I can usually do isolated moves in V6-V8 range but not always link everything together. I like to run so I’ve been running 15-30 miles a week through the summer. Sometimes those miles will be long hikes in the mountains. They are usually at a very casual, base building pace. Both of these activities help with longer trad/desert alpine climbing later in the winter that require easier climbing but long hikes and long days in the mountains. Eventually I’ll probably get excited for trail racing again and shift my focus that direction. I’d like to keep my running base around 20-30 miles so I can easily start to build up for longer distances when I decide to shift my focus back to running. Through the summer I was able to maintain a healthy balance of running, hiking, and climbing of 20-30 miles/week on foot and 2-3 days on rock at a pretty easy level up to 5.11.
I would like to find the optimal, general strength and core workout/training plan that I can do throughout the year regardless of whether I’m focused on climbing or running, BUT will help each sport the most. Also, as I get older I see the benefit of strength training for longevity at sports and time in the mountains, so that is a goal as well.
Through my research, the following exercises seem to benefit both sports and overall strength: single leg exercises such as squats, lunges, and step ups, hanging leg raises, planks, pushups and pullups. Yoga and foam rolling also help. What are other strength and core exercises people recommend? Is there a good training plan on here that meets this criteria? I think adding in some hangboarding and route 4x4s or ARC sessions while focused on running and hill sprints or short speed work while focused on climbing every other week or so could benefit the other sport while not detracting too much from the specific sport I’m focusing on at that time.
Thoughts? Do you recommend a certain training plan, coach, workout? Thank you.