Reed,
One of the yoga instructors I know that best understands mobilty and everything that goes into it is Jason Crandall. I use his routines extensively; I also like that he takes time to explain the why behind what he’s doing. His routines are more gentle/recovery oriented than ashtanga (sometimes called power-yoga) would typically be. Here’s Crandall’s website:
Steve House
Forum Replies Created
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KeymasterSteve House on March 26, 2018 at 12:57 pm · in reply to: Mobility, myofacial release, imbalances / restrictions / injury #8880KeymasterSteve House on March 26, 2018 at 12:40 pm · in reply to: Resting Heart Rate Improvement Rate – Length and Volume of Heart Stroke #8879
I would add a couple of thoughts:
1) RHR is affected by the physical size of your heart’s chambers. Larger people have larger hearts, so a lean, large person, imagine a 6-foot tall person who weight 145 lbs, would have a lower RHR than a 5-foot tall person of the same weight because the blood volume is roughly the same as the mass that needs oxygenation is roughly the same.
2) Having your RHR increase upon moving to a higher altitude is actually a GOOD thing. It means your body is responding appropriately and quickly, through the various acclimatization processes, to the new altitude. A higher RHR and resting respiratory rate are early (and key) adaptations. Someone whose RHR is not elevated upon arriving a new elevation I would classify as a slow responder.KeymasterIt’s up to you. We don’t advocate or specify that so the ‘benchmarks’ we reference in the Training for the New Alpinism book are with a normal shoe you’d use in the gym.
KeymasterSteve House on February 22, 2018 at 3:07 pm · in reply to: KIS Strength Training in 24 week Mountaineering Plan's max strength workout #8217Madanyang- In the 5th set you also do 1 rep, as in the 4th set. Sorry this confused you.
KeymasterSteve House on February 22, 2018 at 11:13 am · in reply to: Big days of ski touring – still base building or ME? #8213John,
The only thing I would add to Scott’s reply is something I read yesterday from one of the running coaches, Steve Magness, that we follow. He had a good post on his blog about ‘fatigue signatures’ It’s a great way to picture fatigue, and move it from the theoretical to the practical. My fatigue signature is hunching over, bad posture, which also makes is harder to get a full breath. What’s yours? I bet if you think about it, besides just how your legs are feeling, you’ll think: “oh yeah, on that last lap I was really reverting to a short-stride and was all hunched over…” or whatever your fatigue-signature is. Put that signature into your consciousness, and you’l recognize it quickly the next time you’ve gone one lap too far. Thanks for the question.
SteveHere is the article from Magness:
KeymasterLindsay,
I have a Garmin Fenix3 and am luke warm. I bought my wife a Suunto Spartan Ultra for Christmas and got a great online sale deal via the dcrainmaker.com site, which is a great site for technical reviews. She likes it so far but is still learning. The color screen is a big upgrade from what I have on the Fenix3. Happy shopping.KeymasterAnd just in case you did not yet see this: https://uphillathlete.com/heart-rate-drift/
KeymasterJeremy-It won’t be slow for long! Keep with it.
KeymasterSteve House on November 20, 2017 at 12:17 pm · in reply to: Moving Workouts Around in 16 Week Plan? #6738And lastly, you can read more about applying plans and dates here:
How to Purchase and Apply Any Uphill Athlete Training Plan Using TrainingPeaks
and there are more handy links at the end of that article that take you to the TrainingPeaks site for more detailed information.
KeymasterSteve House on November 20, 2017 at 12:15 pm · in reply to: Moving Workouts Around in 16 Week Plan? #6736One thing that can be confusing is that the start date affects how the workouts land. So when we build the plans we assume that the first day (as we see the calendar when we build plans0 is a Monday. We always use Monday as the rest day. And we always program the long days to fall on the weekends.
So my suggestion is un-apply your plan. Then re-apply your plan so that the first day of the plan falls on a Monday; that will help the workouts fall on the best days for the typical work schedule. (see screenshot of the 16 week Big Mountain Plan).
One more thing is that you can only move workouts with a premium TP membership. You get 7 days of free premium when you sign up. So if you want to move things around it’s best to do that asap.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.KeymasterSteve House on November 20, 2017 at 11:25 am · in reply to: high altitude sickness or something else…? #6735Svetolslav,
I think the most likely explanation is the high altitude illness know as Cerebral Edema, swelling of the brain. The classic field test for this (not always possible when climbing) is to stand with your arms reaching out to both sides, then close your eyes, and touch your nose. The reason this is a good test is that the motor cortex of the brain is the first thing that is affected by the swelling of the brain. It starts to not work well when it is squeezed. The vision center is also sensitive, but usually balance is the first to go. As you describe that you felt ‘drunk’. This is the classic description. I suggest for any peak above 5,000m you add some extra time for your acclimatization. Everyone acclimatizes at a slightly different rate. You are learning what you yourself can do. Elbrus is very easy to ascend too quickly. Many people have these problems there. It is also making sense that the symptoms disappear at 4,000m. You descended and so the brain swelling (Cerebral Edema) was reversed.
Good luck and climb a bit more slowly to high altitude next time and I think you will be fine.
Steve House
KeymasterHi Mike,
No there is no way to print the workouts. Thought it costs us a fee to use TrainingPeaks we do so for many reasons. Here is an article explaining this decision in more detail.https://uphillathlete.com/why-we-use-trainingpeaks/
Cheers,
SteveKeymasterHi Jon,
Regarding resting at 7,500m without supplement ox: To be honest, I have no advice for you, it just is the way it is. There is no sleeping that high. That’s just a fact of extreme altitude. I don’t think I’ve ever been able to sleep for more than 30 min at a time above 7,200m or so. Around 7k there is a real threshold for me. I guess everyone is a bit different. I do think it’s possible for people who use a really slow acclimatization schedule to get to the point where they can rest more comfortably at 7K, you’ll see this with the altitude workers because they are such frequent / long-duration altitude dwellers they get acclimated enough to at least sleep lightly.
One thing that will really affect your feeling/experience and ultimately recovery at bivy’s is how wasted you are from that day’s effort. The more exhausted you are, the more miserable the night will be, which becomes a self-fullfilling cycle. This strengthens the importance of your base fitness at the outset.
Spend the time as constructively as possible, usually melting water/drinking it. And know that extreme altitude is a massive sufferfest. Go back and read “Prepare yourself to Suffer” by Jean Troillet on page 384 of Training for the New Alpinism.
Hapy suffering 🙂KeymasterCongrats Joanna! We’re all stoked for you. We know this works 😉 but we are very glad you had a good race and proud of you for doing the work that lead to your success. Thanks for sharing! Steve
KeymasterSteve House on September 3, 2017 at 5:12 am · in reply to: Difference btw Josh Wharton’s 4 week and Steve House’s 5 Week Foundation plan #5987Hi,
Good question. The main difference is the sport, which changes the modality a bit.Let me clarify: Josh’s plan prescribes the training modalities of rock climbing, bouldering, and fingerboarding plus some optional workouts for mobility/stretching and running. The focus of this plan, being more cragging/rock climbing utlizes rock climbing as the main modality so as to train those key muscles, tissues, and joints between the fingertips and shoulders.
My 5-week plan was written specifically as a transition period plan for my 8 week Advanced Rock Alpinist Plan, which as it states, is pretty advanced and many people would end up injured if they jumped straight into that. The 5 week plan has as an average week: 3 runs, 2 gym strength sessions, and 1 climbing day. So less of a specific rock climbing focus, as an alpinist needs a very large base of aerobic support for the aerobic nature of the activity which involves appraoching/climbing/descending, not only simply pulling down.
Honestly, I think either plan would accomplish a good base of support for your ice climbing training. One is weight gym based and one is climbing gym based. But they do the same thing in the end. My 5-week plan is 5 weeks because the 5th is a taper week intended to de-load you (allow for rest) before starting the 8-week advanced rock alpinist training plan.
I hope that helps clarify this for you. Let me know if you have further questions.
Steve