Owen,
I agree with Scott, Please ask TP tech support and we’d appreciate it if you’d let us know what they say. thanks, Steve
Steve House
Forum Replies Created
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KeymasterSteve House on June 25, 2019 at 9:06 am · in reply to: TP Run Summary Max HR Different from Raw Data? #23936Keymaster
@Jan Scott will probably jump in here, but I would caution/remind that while the weighted ME workouts are incredibly effective, they require a strong aerobic base. And the bigger/better your aerobic system (both local in terms of the legs themselves and general in terms of the heart/lungs) the more benefit one will see from weighted ME workouts.
I’d caution everyone, as we often do, to avoid trying to find a magic bullet. There is no one workout that is a silver bullet. The silver bullet is this: consistent aerobic and strength workout, gradual increases in training load, modulating the training load into build periods followed by easier weeks. Consistency. Gradualness. Modulation.
Weighted ME frequency. When you start these (typically after 16 weeks of aerobic base training at a minimum) most people do well with 1 workout every other week. 1/14 days. 1/12 workouts. Once you’re quite fit 1/week is good. It’s only the full-time/professional athletes that might, every once in a while, be able to do 2/week weighted ME workouts. Hope that helps. Steve
KeymasterCongratulations Michael! And excellent points that everyone can learn from. The Alps are a logical place for you to climb, let me know if you need any tips or contacts down there. Cheers, Steve
KeymasterSteve House on June 24, 2019 at 11:22 am · in reply to: Hike for vertical meters in Rock Alpinist Plan #23906The vertical meters in the plan is referring to meters GAINED. So whether you do them in one long climb, or many short climbs, the meters going UP are the ones we’re looking for.
KeymasterKate,
My rule of thumb was always to take a month off from structure training. It sounds like a lot in a way, but this doesn’t mean a month of laying on the couch. Rather, it’s a month doing whatever i want, whenever I want. Meaning if I want to join some friends paddleboarding, I do. Or rock climb 3 pitches one day and 15 pitches the next day, I do. I was active. But I avoided structure.At the end of a month of that I would usually start to feel the itch to train again. My mind would start to think about my climbing goals for the next year and then I would know I was ‘ready’.
Hope that helps.
SteveKeymaster@sandrock06 sandrock06 the link only works if you’re a paying subscriber.
KeymasterI have never lived in that part of Oregon, so I’ll leave it to the locals to answer. But in the meantime, have you watched this?
It’s a short video on how to find training locations/trails. I’m sure you’re already doing some of this, but it may have some helpful tips.
KeymasterFor those of you using the Pa:HR calculation, remember that the route has to be FLAT. When I have coached athletes do this test I ask them to run around a track for 60 minutes at a pace they feel they can sustain for that timeframe. Boring, but it works.
Keymaster@journorhodes Your experience is not uncommon. You’re going from random exercise, albeit quite a lot of it, to a structured training plan. Structured training works. That’s part of what Scott Johnston and I set out to change with Training for the New Alpinism in 2014. Climbers never trained, they just climbed, sometimes a lot.
My advice:
1) You can look through the plan and start at a point where the plan’s weekly volume matches your current weekly volume. This is a bit risky, and the younger you are (and therefore better you are at recovering quickly) the better chance you have of pulling this off successfully.
2) Get a refund on your 24-week plan and sign up for an 8-week custom plan (or coaching).
3) Stick to the principles: a) Continuity (frequency and spacing of workouts is very important!) b) Modulation (some weeks are easier, some workouts are easier, this is done like this for good reasons) and c) Gradualness: the training load has to progress gradually over time. Loading on training too fast always results in injury and/or illness.
cheers,
SteveKeymasterHere is a new option. I just got one, I’ll post here once I’ve had it for a month or so. My first impression is quite positive. The app is really good, much better than the Garmin or Suunto app.
https://www.dcrainmaker.com/2019/05/coros-vertix-adventure-gps-premium-watch-hands-on.html
KeymasterWow. @scottsemple, that is some impressive geeking!
KeymasterHi Terry, Looks like a cool adventure!
I would only reiterate what Scott said. Specifically, do those things you wished you had time for when you were training all the time!
KeymasterSteve House on April 10, 2019 at 8:36 am · in reply to: Fat Adaptation and Water Requirements #20302Personally I think that carrying less water is simply an adaptation brought on by…yup, drinking less water. BUT that is not to say that my overall water consumption is less because I drink more before exercise and more after. I start hydrated and end thirsty.
At high altitudes or really dry air (Alberta Canada on a cold day) a hard candy to suck on helps keep your throat from becoming so raw.
KeymasterGood observation.
I have my coached athletes do a couple things to address this unique movement (french technique somewhat sideways to the hill).
1) Box step ups. I have them step up and down off all 4 sides of the box. Front to back, for sure, but also side to side. This will hit those aductors.2) When out for hilly hikes or runs, i have them ‘french technique’ up the steepest hills. Ideally facing across the hill (hips 90 degrees away from fall line) and crossing over with that downhill foot and stepping up. I tell them that if this starts to ‘burn’ at all or skyrocket the heart rate, then to switch back to a normal uphill-facing posture.
Good question.
SteveKeymasterI personally don’t think it’s ever too early to start with a hangboard and here is the reason: The fingers are very slow to adapt. So starting off slowly, and building slowly, ideally over years is the best way to get strong fingers AND (most importantly) stay injury free. The best way to loose finger strength is to get injured…so start with the hangs early and progress slowly.
Here is an article that will help you get started
A few more tips:
If you’ve never done hangboarding before, then start easy! Way easier than you think. Easy enough that it doesn’t really feel like you’re doing much.Be consistent. Start with 2x/week, this doesn’t sound like much but it is enough as the rest-spacing between is important for recovery).
Never climb and hangboard in the same day. After a few years, when you’re sending those 5.12s, then those tendons will be a lot stronger and that maybe okay.
Avoid pockets. They tend to be responsible for most injuries. So stick to edges and slopers for now.
There is tons of info on the web about fingerboards, not all of it is good and not all of it will apply to you. Do not ever imitate advanced climbers unless you yourself have become an advanced climber. That’s a sure way to get injured.
Hope this helps get you started. Good luck find the community there in Germany.
Steve