Hi David, on a tangential note how would you recommend someone climbing in the 5.10+/11- range improve their onsight grade to 5.11+/12- within a similar timeframe of a few months? Assuming they have close access to outdoor bouldering, sport and trad cragging, as well as home training materials such as pull-up bar, rings, and a hangboard.
vik.waghray
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ParticipantParticipant
My 2 cents:
1. In my experience and from what I understand, only time spent moving uphill should count toward the time called for in these sessions.
2. I usually just slow down and reestablish the rhythm for that HR zone, rather than stop altogether. Not sure if that’s necessarily better or worse, but I think it helps to move at a consistent pace. But I guess if you can’t lower your HR without stopping, then you should stop and just resume once it’s back in Z3.
3. I’ve thought about this quite a bit and I think this workout yields the best effects when you can continuously move uphill for the length of the workout, without stopping. You want to keep taxing the muscles involved at a relatively high rate, hence the term muscular endurance. However, making do with what you have is certainly better than nothing at all so I wouldn’t worry about it too much. These specific types of LME workouts are tough to do with limited materials/access.Participantvik.waghray on April 3, 2020 at 12:51 pm · in reply to: at-home solutions for climbing-specific training sessions #40132Thanks for the responses, guys!
@Nick K – That’s an awesome recovery story and it’s encouraging to see the kind of results that commitment to a hangboard program can yield. I’m still experimenting a bit with respect to weekly hang volume but I think I’ve got a decent system figured out so far for this training phase. I will keep your advice in mind as I continue. I’m hoping things open up this summer so I can apply the hangboarding gains toward quality cragging volume and then tackle my alpine rock objectives.
@julie.morter – I agree with you about power sessions, you want to be fresh going into them so take the appropriate amount of rest you feel you need. As for endurance, try doing a high volume of hangs on a large/easy set of holds (should be roughly 40-50% of your max). Check out the app Crimpd, they have hangboard workouts you can do for each climbing training modality (aerobic capacity, power, power endurance, etc). I’ve found their stuff to be incredibly helpful. With smart training I honestly think we could come out of this stronger. Personally, I feel the main dropoff will be my technique and lead head, but after a full day or two back out I expect to regain those skills. Anyway, it seems you have a system worked out for translating the workouts to hangboard sessions so best of luck with it! Keep us posted.
Participantthank you for the thoughtful responses, everyone!
Participantvik.waghray on March 4, 2020 at 10:57 am · in reply to: Training effect of weighted ME vs hill sprints #39252on a related note, what type of ME workout would be best suited to preparing for the demands of long alpine rock climbs/traverses with a light pack on? i’d imagine some kind of hybrid that combines elements of both weighted carries and a gym-based workout?
ParticipantThat’s a good point, I will look to focus more on skill development and technique improvements during the week in between harder outdoor climbing on weekends.
Participantvik.waghray on February 25, 2020 at 1:55 pm · in reply to: training for yosemite-style climbing #38751Hi David, thanks for the reply. I climb in the valley or other spots offering similar cragging opportunities nearly every weekend, so I’m able to get a good volume of real practice in quite often. My idea was to combine this time spent outside with a structured training plan for days I can’t get out to a crag (weekdays, essentially). I figured this would be a reasonable path to improvement, but would like to know whether there might be better ways to go about it.
ParticipantI recently got my hands on a set of the Torr Trainers from Hex Climbing: https://www.hexclimbing.com/product-page/t%C3%B8rr-trainers
I’d highly recommend them, and I think it’s worth supporting a company that makes such climbing-specific training materials!
Participantvik.waghray on December 10, 2019 at 3:09 pm · in reply to: Consequences of delayed eating after workout #34095Thanks so much for the reply, Rebecca! Definitely helpful information.
Participantvik.waghray on November 19, 2019 at 12:47 pm · in reply to: Consequences of delayed eating after workout #32259Hi Rebecca, on a somewhat related note, if we’re doing intensive workouts in the morning (i.e. strength, muscular endurance, etc.) that typically last 1.5-2 hours how would you recommend fueling prior to them? As of now, I’m usually eating a banana before the workout and a fairly substantial recovery meal soon afterward. I find it tough to eat more than just a little bit early in the morning but also want to ensure proper recovery so these sessions don’t go to waste. Thanks!
ParticipantI’d also like to know the intended protocol for this hangboard routine.. so far I’ve interpreted it as doing a hang, then resting for a full minute, and repeating that 10 times (if following the 10-minute structure provided). I didn’t consider the possibility that it might involve accumulating 10 minutes of hang time for each hold, but now I’m wondering if that’s actually the way the routine is supposed to be done?
Participantvik.waghray on April 21, 2019 at 7:38 pm · in reply to: Long-term planning for multiple objectives #20835Thanks for the response, Scott! If I’m understanding correctly, I should aim to keep up with the base and strength work while mixing in specific, progressive ME workouts as each objective gets closer. I’ll re-read the relevant UA articles for further details, as well.
ParticipantFirst off, remember that you want to stay at or below your AeT, which is the upper bound of zone 2. Based on my experience it’s helpful to sustain a slow-moderate pace that keeps you in zone 1/2 depending on the terrain (I run flats but sometimes have to hike/walk up hills during AeT workouts).
As for the volume, you’re going to need to increase that number to at least a few hours per week to start and then gradually up the volume as you adjust to the training load. The only way you’ll see real gains is from consistently doing a high volume of AeT work especially if you think you have ADS—as Scott J, Scott S, and Steve have all discussed in their articles. Generally speaking, it’s hard to put a number on training hours as it is quite dependent on your goal/objective.
Lastly, I couldn’t help but link Scott’s deconstruction of the word ‘cardio’ as it relates to endurance training – https://uphillathlete.com/dont-call-it-cardio/
Good luck!
ParticipantGot it, thanks a lot Scott!
ParticipantThanks for the help, Scott. For the intensity phase, what level of frequency would you recommend? I had been doing 2-3 minute z3 hill repeats once a week prior to my taper, and found that they helped a decent amount. By focusing on z1 training the past year, I feel like I have come a long way in digging myself out of an ADS state but still feel wary about introducing too much intensity, too quickly.