No apologies necessary for the length Scott; thank you for taking the time to put your thoughts out there, again. The commitment you and the other folks at UA have to thoroughly answering questions on this board is really appreciated and very helpful. That explanation makes a lot of sense, I was thinking there would be a way to use such “fudge factors” but any system I would have worked out would have taken me much longer and probably been less accurate. Although I have been tracking my training for a long time, I am thinking that it may be time to start doing it in TP so I can monitor some of these things like CTL.
sambedell
Forum Replies Created
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ParticipantParticipantsambedell on May 18, 2017 at 10:13 am · in reply to: Bike vs. Run as a method of aerobic training #4941
cramblda-
I would say eliptical or stair machines will be more effective than rowing, unless your goal is lots of steep climbing and not much hiking/scrambling (specificity rules).
Regarding running form drills: there are a ton. The question is, what are your neuromuscular weaknesses and what are your goals? Obviously you are not trying to run a fast mile or even 5k/10k. Seems like the main thing for us alpine folks is having efficient form in Z1 so we can go longer with less overuse injuries. In my experience that is more of a lower leg strength and stability issue, although not always.
-Scott’s Killer Core hits a lot of stuff in the hips and thighs.
-I like to throw in some high knees, butt kickers, grapevines, and backwards run in the middle or end of an easy Z1 once every week or two (google those if you don’t know what they are, there are tons of videos).
-Barefoot grass running for a few laps in the middle of a run and/or walking on toes and heels (also barefoot, post run) is great for strengthening lower leg stability muscles (I started doing those in college after several chronic injuries in high school and never had a major injury again while competing seriously).
-Stretching and rolling are also pretty helpful post workout (hold stretches for 30-60 seconds)… this article might be helpful: articleRegarding the locking up of muscles I would say keep up the easy running, but consider doing a cycle of the hill sprints for max strength, recommended in TFNA, after you have been doing some drills and stretches regularly for a couple months. Sounds like you might have a running version of what the Tony Yaniro side article in TFNA describes… if you can’t do the moves you have nothing to endure.
Hope the long-winded response helps.
ParticipantScott,
I know CTL takes several factors into account, but maybe you could give an example of 100 CTL for those of us not familiar with it. Especially for someone who is following the training from TFNA and into the ME strength phase, say in the last 8 weeks of a 24 week cycle.
Participantsambedell on May 17, 2017 at 9:24 am · in reply to: Bike vs. Run as a method of aerobic training #4934Hi Peter,
I add in the bike quite a bit and have had good success off of it. I think for me, coming from a running background, the bike has a different range of motion that involves more pushing down which is a good crossover to climbing that I don’t get running. However, as TFNA mentions, seated bicycling is not weight bearing and that makes it less applicable to climbing and hiking. Ideally you would bike standing the whole time but that may also get your knees.
On another note, if running is bugging your knees I would consider addressing form and strength imbalances in the lower legs. Make sure you are not wearing super squishy shoes that allow for excessive lateral motion. Make sure you are picking your feet up while running. Try jogging barefoot on a flat grass field (local schools work well for this) for part or all of your run once or twice a week. My 2 cents from a decade of competitive cross country and track racing.
ParticipantThanks Scott, that makes a lot of sense. Looks like I need to dial it back and pick a focus for my strength training.
ParticipantHey Scott,
Thinking back to the “Martian Training for Everest” article where you prescribed 2 massive ME workouts each week: How did you train fat adaptation in this situation if you are having the athlete fuel well for this workout? Was this a situation of huge fat adaptation already so you didn’t need to do more or did you stress the fat metabolism by some sort of fasting at the expense of quality ME?
Thanks,
Sam
ParticipantThanks Scott! I’m planning out my next cycle and that definitely gives me more options to consider.
Out of interest, how much strength would you guys say is “sufficient” for a good ME program? I realize that the definition of sufficient varies depending on the athlete and their goals. Is there a formula or framework you use for saying MS is good, we’re moving to ME? Do you have a benchmarks in mind for where someone should be in MS or ME for specific classic objectives (for example Liberty Ridge, Cassin, Cassin in a day, Makalu W Pillar alpine style)?
Participantsambedell on March 16, 2017 at 10:13 am · in reply to: Technical training when you live far from big mountains #4274Mike, if there are cliffs and rocks near your house you can practice skills. Aid bouldering, dry tooling, building anchors and rapping followed by TR soloing on that line. If you don’t know what those things are then look them up… lots of good info on the internet for the discerning reader. Training is a lot of working on weaknesses so if you can run 20 miles in zone 1 and do laps on 5.11 at the gym then consider spending a day each week doing technical practice. Search maps for cliff bands, bridges, campsites. Go camping on the coldest day of the year with your alpine kit, even if it’s car camping.
ParticipantV-ups and lat pullovers with some bicep curls would hit the same muscle groups.
Also consider bringing a portable pull-up bar that latches on door frames or just going to a neighborhood park and using the jungle gym or soccer goal.
Participantsambedell on February 24, 2017 at 11:17 am · in reply to: Rock-climbing-specific-version of Recovery Article #4133Scott,
Do you know if static stretching post workout has any positive or negative impact on training effect?-Sam
ParticipantThanks guys. That is kind of what I thought but it’s good to hear your rationale.
ParticipantThanks for clarifying Scott.
ParticipantThanks for the detailed response Scott S.
I don’t use Training Peaks but maybe I should, I have a pretty detailed training log already. My ramp rate has been 10% so if I do 10hrs one week I do 11hrs the next. Obviously that is super high and it’s not working. What would a 1.8 or 2.8 ramp rate be in %?
I am not sprinting as you recommend, but I recently started bouldering twice a week instead of conventional strength training because I am trying to specifically improve my capacity to pull hard moves on rock. I don’t want to do too many hard workouts and I feel like this is a similar metabolic load to a sprinting workout, what do you guys think? How are you structuring sprints? The MS sprint plan from TFTNA or somethign totally different?
Thanks again for the insight, I will try lay off the volume for a bit and modulate the heck out of my training and see if my “appetite” returns.
-Sam
ParticipantThanks Scott, I’ll try that out.
On those recovery weeks I typically include the usual workouts (2x strength, climbing day, long day). Should I cut back on those too? I usually try to do lighter strength work every 4th week but sometimes that ends up not correlating with the volume down week due to other changes in schedule. Is that OK?
Also, I’ve noticed that I tend to do more pitches on down weeks… maybe just a factor of having more energy/time and wanting to take advantage of the opportunity. I’m guessing I should probably reign that habit in?
-Sam