Rock-climbing-specific-version of Recovery Article

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  • #3844
    Colin Simon
    Participant

    This recent article has a lot of recovery tips for general endurance sports:

    Tips to Aid Recovery from Training

    However rock climbing is so specific to the lower arms, hands, and fingers.

    A masseuse recently suggested using the kitchen sink for ice-baths for the lower arms until numb and then removing.

    Anyone have more scientific suggestions than that?

Posted In: Climbing

  • Keymaster
    Scott Johnston on #3845

    Colin:
    Muscles are muscles, forearms or legs. Doesn’t matter. Ice baths are good and bad. The ice will reduce inflammation and so speed recovery. But the inflammatory response if one of the principle signaling mechanisms that triggers some critical adaptations to training. So do you really want to train hard in order to start that signaling pathway only to dampening it by using an ice bath that inhibits the thing you are trying to achieve?

    The same thing for NSAIDs. Do you want to dampen or enhance the training effect?

    If the inflammation is severe and finger joints in a lot of pain then localized icing might be a good idea. But you probably over did it in this case and are risking injury. But regular, generalized icing may not be the bets thing for long term improvement.

    Scott

    Participant
    Colin Simon on #3859

    Scott:

    That is very new information to me! I’ve usually avoided icing out of laziness. Some solid accidental wisdom…

    But self-massage, or any type of massage, does not dampen the training effect?

    How does acupuncture fit in?

    Keymaster
    Scott Johnston on #3860

    Colin;

    Massage will not dampen the training effect like anti-inflamatory treatments like icing. No idea about acupuncture though, sorry.

    Scott

    Participant
    sambedell on #4133

    Scott,
    Do you know if static stretching post workout has any positive or negative impact on training effect?

    -Sam

    Keymaster
    Scott Johnston on #4134

    I do not think there is any evidence either way about post workout static stretching. None I am aware of anyway. Sorry I can;t be of more help with that.

    Scott

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