Upper body strength training

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  • #4928

    Short story: I did a pull-up test. Did 6 weeks of training. Retested. Same result.

    Training background: 10 weeks of bouldering with supplemental strength (campus board, scotts core, pull-ups, push-ups, rows, overhead press).

    Training: 3 days a weeks doing the following workouts… weighted jugging in a tree, pull-ups, stack of crack climbs each week.

    Pull-up workout: scotts core, short campus or hangboard, pull-ups in sets of 4-10 with weight or in variations until failure.

    What I think went wrong:
    lack of consistency, I should have committed to two pull-up specific workouts each week
    Overtraining, I thought that pull-ups til failure were specific to a max rep test. It actually probably was excessive.
    Overconfidence from previous strength training, I did the special pull-ups training regimine from TFNA last spring and progressed a lot. I assumed that I had lost less strength than I probably had in the intervening time.

    What do folks think? Is my assessment accurate? Am I missing something?

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    Anonymous on #4930

    It sounds mostly like a case of way over doing the training. Especially going to failure like you were. Failure is not the best way to build max strength. It is a great way to build muscular endurance and increase mass. This is he main body building technique. The max strength protocol laid out in our book explains how to increase number of pull up reps. I have used that protocol many times with many people and always seen big gains.

    Decide what you want to get out of the training you are doing: If increasing number of pull ups then use the max pull up routine in Training for the New Alpinism and nothing else with those same muscles. If it is jugging then, likewise, train for that. If it is crack climbing then train just for that. All these things are hitting the same muscle groups over and over again and you have exceeded their capacity to absorb all this work you are throwing at them. This is why Periodization in training, especially in strength training works so well. You train in series (not in parallel) the qualities you want to improve.
    Each phase builds on the next.


    sambedell on #4933

    Thanks Scott, that makes a lot of sense. Looks like I need to dial it back and pick a focus for my strength training.

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