Marc, Very goal dependent but I have generally found the gym climbing to be pretty flexible with my athletes is its not super draining from a recovery perspective and mostly stresses smaller muscle groups. Tuesday can work if you do Chamfit in the AM the gym climb in the PM or vice versa, or commonly Saturday assuming Sunday is going to be the longer day. Unless you have very specific technical climbing goals I think doing a pyramid of routes where you build up over 4-5 routes to your onsight level, then try 2-3 route that are around your first try limit, then 2-3 easier routes really focusing on technique even though you may be a bit tired works well. I think stopping while you’re ahead in the gym and not ingraining poor/sloppy technique is key.
do you have recommendations about fitting in some gym based climbing into our training plans?
Specifically, is there a particular day of the week that is recommended, based on the type of training we already have scheduled for a particular day?
Also, do you have recommendations about the type to gym climbing / training? It it recommended to just climb several routes near our limit or do more repeats on easier routes to build endurance?
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