[katy_pf]

Hiya! I have been climbing and playing in the mountains for over 20 years, but am very new to training. For every route I climb, I add three more to my list. My list for the next few years contains a bunch of 5.10-5.12 grade IV and V climbs.

A few weeks ago, a girlfriend and I climbed Clean Break at WA Pass in a day (5.10c, grade IV). Car to car it was 17 hours, the rock portion was 8.5 hours. I led all the 5.10 pitches, with a pack on. Yes, I was tired afterwards, but pretty psyched for how everything went. And now I want more! How do I train for bigger, harder objectives?? I work from home on the computer, and have access to rock outside, a home woody, a hangboard, and gymnastics rings (and a gym in Wenatchee whenever that opens!).

This season I’ve been working on my head game, as I have been afraid of leading hard pitches high up and far away from the car. (I am making excellent progress with this). I could also improve my uphill game, I’m pretty slow compared to my mountain guide husband and my ultra-runner friends. But what else? Power? Endurance? Power-endurance?

Any advice or direction would be greatly appreciated. There’s a lot to wade through in the training world and I just need some advice on where to start! Thank you so much!!!!

Topic

[Anonymous]

Anonymous on September 2, 2020 at 10:48 am #44717

Fantastic work on the ascent of Clean Break, it’s been years since I climbed in that area so I looked up the route, sounds amazing!

A little help with your questions:
It sounds like you’ve identified a few places to focus.
1) head game you are already working on, well done.
2) better uphill ability on approaches – this can be a game changer, the more efficient you are at uphill with a pack, the less fatigued you’ll be before you begin the technical climbing leaving much more energy for the climb itself. Leading of course to having the stamina for harder routes.
3) climbing harder with a pack on, which you’ll want to train for specifically in addition to the aforementioned in #2.

I’d jump on #2 now, as it will take time to build more of an aerobic base and this is what UA is all about, correct ADS and loads of Zone 1/2 training.
Begin by spending a couple of days a week at a local hill with an alpine climbing weight pack and carrying it uphill at or below your aerobic threshold. Again you’re building for next season so keep this up through the winter.

Since we can’t train for and change everything at once maybe your next step since you’re in the groove with the upholding would be winter difficulty training for climbing.
#3 beginning a winter climbing strength training program would be fantastic, as well as adding in training with a pack on if you aren’t already. Wear your pack (after warm up)Bouldering at home, if cragging lead and do TR’s on the same route while wearing your pack, and when you’re in a training cycle with your hangboard adding a bit of weight to that as well, you want to be cautious to build up to this.

All this will lead up to a stronger and more efficient you come next season.
Good luck with all and enjoy the climbing! The list does just keep getting longer doesn’t it ( :