Aerobic climbing sessions / Max hangs

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  • #33905

    Hi All,

    I’m just starting my second year of training and I have a couple of questions about integrating my regular climbing training into my TFTNA plan which I am starting. My goal climbs are primarily technical Alpine rock routes and mixed climbing.

    1 – I do max hangs on a fingerboard 1-2 times per week, should I reduce this to a maintenance level during the transition and base periods, or can I keep it up?
    2 – I like to do aerobic climbing sessions/ARCing, should I wear a HR monitor and count this towards my Aerobic training hours or is it too specific?



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    Anonymous on #33906

    1) Do you mean the transition and base periods for general endurance? I think you can keep the max hangs. Your legs won’t notice… 🙂

    2) No. Likewise, your legs won’t notice the ARC sessions. They’re too local (focused on the forearms.)

    The biggest thing to consider is fatigue. The climbing will be more of a recovery workout for your legs, but not vice versa. A lot of general aerobic work could fatigue you for the technical climbing. So those sessions are best done fresh, after a rest day, the first workout of the day, etc.

    metrorunt on #33908

    Hi Scott, thanks for your reply. Yeah I’m in the transition phase atm, following the general alpinism plan from TFTNA. Thats good news on the max hangs.

    I’m not sure I completely get your last point. Do you mean I should come to the climbing sessions fresh/rested/first thing?

    Anonymous on #34081

    Ideally, yes. If your general aerobic work creates general fatigue, you won’t get as much out of the climbing sessions. Whereas the climbing sessions won’t create as much general fatigue, there’s a lower chance that they’ll negatively impact the endurance work.

    metrorunt on #34128

    Perfect, thanks for the clarification

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