Many training zone systems, especially those automatically generated by the Garmins and Suuntos of the world are based on estimates of your anaerobic threshold as estimated by those devices. A much better way to go is to self-test both your aerobic and anaerobic threshold so that your training zones are based on actual measurements that […]
INFORMATION SPECIFIC TO ALASKA Do your research: https://publications.americanalpineclub.org Worth buying if focused on the Ruth Gorge for Joe Puryear’s article: https://www.amazon.com/American-Alpine-Journal-John-Harlin/dp/1933056010 New Alaska Ice book (because someone asked): https://www.climbak.com Joe’s book: http://www.supertopo.com/packs/alaska.html WEATHER NWS: https://www.weather.gov NWS Anchorage: https://www.weather.gov/afc/ Point click for the Ruth Gorge: https://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-150.69473&lat=62.93748 University of Washington Weather: https://atmos.uw.edu/current-weather/ No American climber is more known for […]
With over 40 Denali summits between them, Uphill Athlete coaches Steve House and Mark Postle know what it takes to climb Denali. In this discussion the pair will focus on climbing Denali via the West Buttress (standard) route, what it is like, sprinkled with plenty of tips on how to do it. We’ll touch on […]
Uphill Athlete coaches, led by Carolyn Parker, put together 24 free body-weight only strength workouts that are designed to be done at tempo. So your heart rate should be in your zone 1 or 2 throughout. Even for those sheltered-in-place in an urban apartment will be able to maintain most, if not all, of their […]
If you have a hangboard and a set of rings, you’re ready to take your rock climbing to the next level! Created in partnership with the Bouldering Project Well before the pandemic started Uphill Athlete’s Josh Wharton and Steve House spent months working on an extensive series of training plans in partnership with the training […]
The K7 story, in the full telling, is taking three shows to cover. There is more it than one mountain. In full, this is the story of attempting the enchanting and powerful Masherbrum in 2003, discovering (for myself) the Charakusa Valley in a remote corner of the Karakoram Range. Returning to the Charakusa to climb […]
The process of discovering and climbing K7, in 2003-2004, is my most cherished mountain experience. In this presentation I share the first half of that journey, the 2003 expedition which includes a solo first ascent of Hajji Brakk (circa 6,000m) and three attempts on K7 main (6,942m). The 2004 expedition is covered in the April […]
Masherbrum, possibly the most difficult summit in the world to reach, from the north-east. Marko Prezelj Photo
A successful high-altitude expedition depends on many factors. Fitness is the one factor completely under your control, and if you are reading this, you have likely invested significant time preparing for your climb. Congratulations. Now comes the part that training alone cannot teach you: how to manage yourself on the mountain so that all that […]
Our General Strength Training Routine for Mountaineers and Climbers relies on simple to learn, mostly body-weight exercises. The exercise list alternates between upper and lower body movements and is set up to do as a circuit. The need for minimal props means that this routine is highly portable and can be completed almost anywhere. For […]
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