Author: Steve House

Cry in the Dojo, Laugh on the Battlefield The older I get, the more truth I seem to find hidden in clichés. This thought occurred to me recently as I’d been holding back the urge to vomit for the better part of an hour. It was too late and too hot, and I was struggling to keep the sweat rolling off my forehead from getting into my eyes. My head swam, my legs burned, and I dearly wished that I had woken up earlier. It was barely late morning, but the sun was scorching, I was wilting, and my 10-inch…

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For over 25 years Carolyn Parker has been an athlete and a coach. Throughout her journey she has been a trail breaker for women in the arenas of mountain guiding, climbing, and coaching. Her accomplishments are many, from founding Climb Like a Girl, to currently owning the only all-female owned and operated strength training gym in the country, Ripple Effect. She and Steve House first met and climbed together in 1995. The two of them will recount Carolyn’s pioneering work and discuss questions you pose by chat as well as: Female athletes and the headwinds they face. Female leaders in…

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Show Notes and Links: INFORMATION SPECIFIC TO ALASKA Do your research: https://publications.americanalpineclub.org Worth buying if focused on the Ruth Gorge for Joe Puryear’s article: https://www.amazon.com/American-Alpine-Journal-John-Harlin/dp/1933056010 New Alaska Ice book (because someone asked): https://www.climbak.com Joe’s book: http://www.supertopo.com/packs/alaska.html WEATHER NWS: https://www.weather.gov NWS Anchorage: https://www.weather.gov/afc/ Point click for the Ruth Gorge: https://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-150.69473&lat=62.93748 University of Washington Weather: https://atmos.uw.edu/current-weather/ No American climber is more known for the Smash-and-Grab style of alpinism than our very own coach John Frieh. Smash-and-Grab climbing means that he would build his fitness, track the weather, and buy last-minute tickets to Alaska. Once there, he’d fly into the mountain, climb, and fly out asap. He…

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Free speed is the idea that there is a lot to be gained by improvements in attitude and technique. People often gloss over those areas because they’re not as gratifying as getting destroyed in a workout. Coach Scott Semple and Uphill Athlete co-founder Scott Johnston will dive into what works, and what doesn’t. This was originally recorded on May 21, 2020. Here are some examples of Free Speed: Attitude toward training: Don’t waste time chasing magic bullets and lottery-ticket temptations. Attempted shortcuts are just wasted detours. Cutting a skimo race time from 3h00m to 2h40m demands an 11% increase in…

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With over 40 Denali summits between them, Uphill Athlete coaches Steve House and Mark Postle know what it takes to climb Denali. In this discussion the pair will focus on climbing Denali via the West Buttress (standard) route, what it is like, sprinkled with plenty of tips on how to do it. We’ll touch on the physical training for Denali, but will address that topic in-depth in a future talk. This illustrated Zoom Talk features 120 images of climbing the West Buttress. We discuss strategy, camps, food, cooking, summit strategies, and more. Originally broadcast live, May 7, 2020 You may…

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Uphill Athlete coaches, led by Carolyn Parker, put together 24 free body-weight only strength workouts that are designed to be done at tempo. So your heart rate should be in your zone 1 or 2 throughout. Even for those sheltered-in-place in an urban apartment will be able to maintain most, if not all, of their aerobic conditioning by doing one of these workouts each day, or alternate with a treadmill walk or run and do one of these every second day. The workouts are highly varied to help you fend off boredom. We recommend doing one of them every second…

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If you have a hangboard and a set of rings, you’re ready to take your rock climbing to the next level! Created in partnership with the Bouldering Project Well before the pandemic started Uphill Athlete’s Josh Wharton and Steve House spent months working on an extensive series of training plans in partnership with the training staff of the Bouldering Project climbing gyms. The Bouldering Project are currently in Seattle, Austin, and Minneapolis, with more locations in the works. We were due to launch training plans to Bouldering Project and Uphill Athlete members, right about now. Well, the gyms are closed,…

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This already happened Click here to view on our YouTube Page. Now is your chance to ask Uphill Athlete co-founder, author, and master coach, Scott Johnston anything you’d like. Send questions ahead of time to: scott@uphillathlete.com Thursday, April 9, 2020. 11am MDT (GMT -6 hours). Capacity for up to 1,000 participants. Interaction and questions via the Zoom Chat is encouraged. Priority will be given to questions submitted ahead of time. Due to recent security problems a password is required to join. We will post to the Uphill Athlete YouTube Channel, hopefully the same day.

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This already happened, but you can click here to watch on our YouTube channel. The K7 story, in the full telling, is taking three shows to cover. There is more it than one mountain. In full, this is the story of attempting the enchanting and powerful Masherbrum in 2003, discovering (for myself) the Charakusa Valley in a remote corner of the Karakoram Range. Returning to the Charakusa to climb alone, and climbing Hajji Brakk, a solo first-ascent. Then making the first attempts, and discovering the key to the route, on K7 that same season. In this show I tell the…

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