Author: Steve House

https://youtu.be/emT6Re_d9dMHeart Rate Drift TestThis test has become our go-to test for all our coached athletes. We like it so much that we include it as the first workout in every aerobically based training plan we offer. This article provides a full description of the test, so we won’t repeat the instructions here. We have found it to be well correlated (95+ percent) with Metabolic Efficiency Tests (the gold standard)Our full discussion of all the self-assessment options is found in this article:Aerobic Self-Assessment for Mountain AthletesSimple in concept, the Heart Rate Drift test uses the principle that when you hold an aerobic…

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Whether you are training for Mount Everest expedition, Mount Rainier, Mont Blanc, or Colorado 14’ers, the theory and practice are the same. While we wrote the book on this subject, here we will condense that information to concise, actionable advice backed up with enough theory that you can understand the why behind any good mountaineering training plan and we will teach you how to train for mountaineering.The Mountaineer as AthleteTraining for mountaineering places big demands on an athlete. But the mountain climbing training is not nearly as severe as the stress mountains place on climbers. The option to drop out…

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Click to download a printable PDF of this workout.The following gym-based ME program is ideal for runners, skiers, alpinists, and any other mountain athletes who need to prime themselves for steep uphill travel. It is especially well suited to those who lack easy access to steep hills. Whether you are an elite-level athlete or a back-of-the-pack racer, you are guaranteed to see gains from this workout. It is another Uphill Athlete staple.SPECIAL NOTE:You can modulate the intensity of this workout and the resultant fatigue and soreness in the following ways;1) The height of your jumps and the extent of the…

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Many training zone systems, especially those automatically generated by the Garmins and Suuntos of the world are based on estimates of your anaerobic threshold as estimated by those devices. A much better way to go is to self-test both your aerobic and anaerobic threshold so that your training zones are based on actual measurements that accurately reflect your current fitness level. This video teaches you how to use the aerobic and anaerobic threshold tests to anchor a simple four-zone training system. For our full guide to conducting self-assessments of aerobic and anaerobic threshold tests read this article.

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A home-based, video-tutorial supported strength training plan. This plan features: No-gear. Strength and Core in one workout. Self-guided. You choose your frequency and pace. Our own professionally shot and edited how-to videos for every exercise. Subscription Access. $25 for a full year. Training Plans are hosted on our site. No TrainingPeaks. Fun and varied exercises. Built-in Progressions. Read more and check out the free sample workout!

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Cry in the Dojo, Laugh on the Battlefield The older I get, the more truth I seem to find hidden in clichés. This thought occurred to me recently as I’d been holding back the urge to vomit for the better part of an hour. It was too late and too hot, and I was struggling to keep the sweat rolling off my forehead from getting into my eyes. My head swam, my legs burned, and I dearly wished that I had woken up earlier. It was barely late morning, but the sun was scorching, I was wilting, and my 10-inch…

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For over 25 years Carolyn Parker has been an athlete and a coach. Throughout her journey she has been a trail breaker for women in the arenas of mountain guiding, climbing, and coaching. Her accomplishments are many, from founding Climb Like a Girl, to currently owning the only all-female owned and operated strength training gym in the country, Ripple Effect. She and Steve House first met and climbed together in 1995. The two of them will recount Carolyn’s pioneering work and discuss questions you pose by chat as well as: Female athletes and the headwinds they face. Female leaders in…

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Show Notes and Links: INFORMATION SPECIFIC TO ALASKA Do your research: https://publications.americanalpineclub.org Worth buying if focused on the Ruth Gorge for Joe Puryear’s article: https://www.amazon.com/American-Alpine-Journal-John-Harlin/dp/1933056010 New Alaska Ice book (because someone asked): https://www.climbak.com Joe’s book: http://www.supertopo.com/packs/alaska.html WEATHER NWS: https://www.weather.gov NWS Anchorage: https://www.weather.gov/afc/ Point click for the Ruth Gorge: https://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-150.69473&lat=62.93748 University of Washington Weather: https://atmos.uw.edu/current-weather/ No American climber is more known for the Smash-and-Grab style of alpinism than our very own coach John Frieh. Smash-and-Grab climbing means that he would build his fitness, track the weather, and buy last-minute tickets to Alaska. Once there, he’d fly into the mountain, climb, and fly out asap. He…

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Free speed is the idea that there is a lot to be gained by improvements in attitude and technique. People often gloss over those areas because they’re not as gratifying as getting destroyed in a workout. Coach Scott Semple and Uphill Athlete co-founder Scott Johnston will dive into what works, and what doesn’t. This was originally recorded on May 21, 2020. Here are some examples of Free Speed: Attitude toward training: Don’t waste time chasing magic bullets and lottery-ticket temptations. Attempted shortcuts are just wasted detours. Cutting a skimo race time from 3h00m to 2h40m demands an 11% increase in…

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With over 40 Denali summits between them, Uphill Athlete coaches Steve House and Mark Postle know what it takes to climb Denali. In this discussion the pair will focus on climbing Denali via the West Buttress (standard) route, what it is like, sprinkled with plenty of tips on how to do it. We’ll touch on the physical training for Denali, but will address that topic in-depth in a future talk. This illustrated Zoom Talk features 120 images of climbing the West Buttress. We discuss strategy, camps, food, cooking, summit strategies, and more. Originally broadcast live, May 7, 2020 You may…

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