Author: Steve House

No mountain has ever been climbed. Those steps, those handholds, those ice axes are the foundations upon which we lift ourselves—and one another—up. Not above others, not even above our past selves. We go to meet ourselves. Our true selves. The mountain truly is an analogue to ourselves. “Within alpinism’s narrow framework we seek transcendence and relentlessly pursue what remains hidden from us on flat ground: Our true selves.” -Beyond the Mountain (2009) Why do we go to the mountains?Taking risks and doing tough things isn’t particularly hard, or brave; your actions are a manifestation of who you are and…

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Training for Alpinism is arguably one of the most complex mental and physical skill sets that people train for simply because you have to be good at everything. For many climbers the 1938 route on the Eiger would rightfully be a career highlight. It is a brilliant climb, truly world-class in every way. In this article I will use training for and climbing the Eiger via its North Face as a parable for training for all alpinism.   Steve House’s 16-Week Eiger North Face Training Plan buy now $79 Physical Training. In the case of alpinism, we’re going to describe…

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Updated on January 12, 2022In my last newsletter I had asked you to join me in "wrestling the why", and you responded with a quality and quantity of thought provoking insight well beyond my expectations. So today I share your thoughts with. After all, this conversation belongs to us all.Noel Gerritse wrote: Training helps me feel better: I’ve felt like my best self when I’ve been in the best shape of my life. But besides those shorter moments, what’s consistently true is that when I train I feel like a better version of myself. Happier, stronger, more balanced – both…

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Veteran Denali guide and Uphill Athlete coach Mark P. walks you through the clothing and personal gear he uses on Denali. Filled with details and tips, this video is a must-watch for anyone considering gearing up for North America’s highest mountain. Uphill Athlete’s Recommended Denali Clothing and Gear List Boots: La Sportiva Olympus Mons Boots Camp Booties: Western Mountaineering Standard Down Booties 3-4 Pairs socks (over the calf ski length) Lenz heated socks for summit day (if your feet run cold) 3-4 pairs underwear Patagonia Capilene mid weight Long Johns Patagonia Capilene Thermal Weight Long Johns Patagonia Simul Alpine Pants…

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https://youtu.be/emT6Re_d9dMHeart Rate Drift TestThis test has become our go-to test for all our coached athletes. We like it so much that we include it as the first workout in every aerobically based training plan we offer. This article provides a full description of the test, so we won’t repeat the instructions here. We have found it to be well correlated (95+ percent) with Metabolic Efficiency Tests (the gold standard)Our full discussion of all the self-assessment options is found in this article:Aerobic Self-Assessment for Mountain AthletesSimple in concept, the Heart Rate Drift test uses the principle that when you hold an aerobic…

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Whether you are training for Mount Everest expedition, Mount Rainier, Mont Blanc, or Colorado 14’ers, the theory and practice are the same. While we wrote the book on this subject, here we will condense that information to concise, actionable advice backed up with enough theory that you can understand the why behind any good mountaineering training plan and we will teach you how to train for mountaineering.The Mountaineer as AthleteTraining for mountaineering places big demands on an athlete. But the mountain climbing training is not nearly as severe as the stress mountains place on climbers. The option to drop out…

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Click to download a printable PDF of this workout.The following gym-based ME program is ideal for runners, skiers, alpinists, and any other mountain athletes who need to prime themselves for steep uphill travel. It is especially well suited to those who lack easy access to steep hills. Whether you are an elite-level athlete or a back-of-the-pack racer, you are guaranteed to see gains from this workout. It is another Uphill Athlete staple.SPECIAL NOTE:You can modulate the intensity of this workout and the resultant fatigue and soreness in the following ways;1) The height of your jumps and the extent of the…

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Many training zone systems, especially those automatically generated by the Garmins and Suuntos of the world are based on estimates of your anaerobic threshold as estimated by those devices. A much better way to go is to self-test both your aerobic and anaerobic threshold so that your training zones are based on actual measurements that accurately reflect your current fitness level. This video teaches you how to use the aerobic and anaerobic threshold tests to anchor a simple four-zone training system. For our full guide to conducting self-assessments of aerobic and anaerobic threshold tests read this article.

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