Author: Steve House

Thank you to all who attended and brought your great questions and positive energy. Here is the link to watch this on YouTube. Thanks for watching! Scott Johnston and Steve House will draw upon their shared decades of training and coaching to help you motivate to train, at whatever level is possible for you, in this unusual time. This Event is Free Up to to 1,000 participants can chat and interact. We will live-stream to the Uphill Athlete Facebook Page (no chat)  We will post to the Uphill Athlete YouTube Channel, hopefully within a few hours.

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The process of discovering and climbing K7, in 2003-2004, is my most cherished mountain experience. In this presentation I share the first half of that journey, the 2003 expedition which includes a solo first ascent of Hajji Brakk (circa 6,000m) and three attempts on K7 main (6,942m). The 2004 expedition is covered in the April 9, 2020 Zoom Hangout. This already happened, but you can click here to watch on our YouTube channel. The full text of the quote Steve read at the start: Message from White Eagle of the Hopi Nation, 03/16/2020: “This moment humanity is going through…

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This already happened, but you can click here to watch on our YouTube channel. Join us on Zoom, Thursday at 11am Mountain Time, for story-time with Steve House. Steve went into his archive of seldom-told tales to come up with a story of adapting to unexpected risks and circumstances. How did an attempt on Masherbrum lead to two of the best ascents of his career, on two different peaks? Join him and the Uphill Athlete community to listen in. Chat will be on throughout for ample Q and A. Kid-Friendly. Please disable your video. Participation will be capped at 1,000…

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All of us are feeling the upheaval caused by the current virus threat. Daily were hearing news of race cancellations, mountain closures, and ever-more restricted travel. We’ve received quite a few inquiries from our coached athletes and the Uphill Athlete audience in general about the frustration of having trained for months, or even years, for a big event that has now been cancelled. As athletes who spent much of the time and focus on climbing, we know this situation well. We’ve spent countless years preparing for expeditions, only to not have weather and conditions not allow for an attempt.…

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Dear coaches, Scott and Dave. I’ll give you a rundown of the trip. But first….. You guys have been a Godsend. No one would ever expect some 48-year-old ex semi-truck driver, climbing newbie from the Adirondacks to start from scratch and do so much in less than two years. That’s all because of the fitness program you guys have put together for me. I champion you guys everywhere I go. I’m proud as hell that I have the privilege of training under you guys, so please feel free to use anything you like as a testimonial. You deserve it. We…

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Our tips for expedition success and be boiled down to three things: Control what you can control. Take the long view. Work to be in the right place at the right time. We have many years of experience on dozens of expeditions in every major mountain range in the earth. Amongst the Uphill Athlete coaching staff we have over 45 successful Denali ascents, twenty-plus expeditions to 8000m peaks, and many more trips to peaks 7000m and below.  This gives us the perspective to be able to offer some tips for expedition success that help you make the most of the…

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Our General Strength Training Routine for Mountaineers and Climbers relies on simple to learn, mostly body-weight exercises. The exercise list alternates between upper and lower body movements and is set up to do as a circuit. The need for minimal props means that this routine is highly portable and can be completed almost anywhere. For an in-depth explanation of the role strength training plays for mountain athletes we recommend Strength Training for the Mountain Athlete. Start with Core as your warm-up. Postpartum? Start here. Here is easier our Core Routine Video The more difficult Scott’s Killer Core Routine General…

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In the past I’ve trained toward massive, singular goals: summiting Everest, climbing in Antarctica, skiing Cho Oyu. Having a clear goal lets you know exactly where you need to be in terms of fitness, and when you need to get there. A big mountain on the horizon is a strong motivator. Then in 2017, not long after Everest, I joined Uber as Chief Business Officer, Asia Pacific. One year later, my role expanded to CBO for all of the company’s international operations. That means moving people around cities in 60-plus countries. I became so busy developing new teams and markets…

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A hundred years ago my great-grandfather walked out on my great-grandmother, leaving her with two young children to raise, Jack and Twila. Seventy-five years ago, Jack’s young wife died of cancer, leaving him alone with a 6-month-old son, Don. Don is my father. I was raised by two loving parents and I never thought about loss. Until recently. Loss, both tragic and routine, is something I left largely unexamined until a massive climbing fall in 2010. The resulting life-threatening injuries plunged me into a cold bath of self-examination and upheaval. Changes came rapidly: I stepped back from extreme alpinism, began…

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Little did we three authors of Training for the Uphill Athlete anticipate the resulting uptick in interest in individual blood lactate testing. Since the book was published, we’ve fielded numerous inquiries from gym owners, coaches, and athletes about this testing protocol, which is especially helpful for determining Aerobic Threshold (AeT). Apparently there is a dearth of information out there, and we’re glad to have ignited some enthusiasm. This article provides a deep dive into how to conduct your own blood lactate test and analyze the results without having to go to a lab. Read on for the pros and cons…

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