“I designed this plan to address the specific fitness demands of the Eiger’s 1938 Route and similar legendary climbs. This plan is for climbers who already possess the necessary technical skills but need a framework to develop the aerobic and climbing-specific fitness essential for success (and fun!) on these routes. Whether you’re tackling a one-day push on the famous Nordwand or a two- to three-day journey up the Grand Jorasses, this plan will get you ready.”

Steve House

Are you ready to take on the world’s most iconic and challenging alpine routes? This 16-week training plan is your ultimate guide to preparing for technical big mountain climbs that demand exceptional aerobic capacity, climbing-specific fitness, and unwavering commitment.

This plan is perfectly suited for any major technical alpine climb, including the Moonflower Buttress (Bibler-Klewin Route), the Walker Spur, or the awe-inspiring 4,500m-long Intégrale de Peuterey on Mont Blanc.

This comprehensive program is a progressive approach to aerobic endurance and strength development. We begin with a four-week transition period to ease you in, making it suitable even if you’re not currently training. Subsequent weeks gradually increase in intensity and volume, leading to a final 10-day taper period – arrive at your objective ready to perform at your peak. The plan includes a bonus one-week maintenance period that can be repeated while waiting for the perfect climbing window. Detailed tips on acclimating before your climb, specifically if you’re heading to the Eiger, are included.

This plan is designed for mixed climbing and the use of ice tools, focusing on the unique demands of technical alpine climbing. For climbers aiming at harder technical objectives, we recommend supplementing this plan with additional technical climbing training. You may also extend this plan by repeating weeks 13 and 14 as needed.