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NandaDevi

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Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 31 total)
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Posted In: Training for Rock Climbing

  • Participant
    NandaDevi on February 10, 2022 at 10:25 pm · in reply to: Changes to 16 week mountaineering training plan #63227

    Thanks, Shashi. From what I recall, those muscular endurance workouts (1.5 hours duration) were there before too. Aren’t the 3-4 hour hikes in the last month with 20%bw packs more “event-like”? I’m wondering why that was changed. Was it felt that it would be more effective to focus on aerobic capacity improvement without added weight?

    Participant
    NandaDevi on August 29, 2020 at 10:32 pm · in reply to: Learning from failure #44626

    Shashi, thanks for the post.
    a. I followed the plan pretty consistently – the only thing that was a bit concerning may be that it got pretty hot in the last few weeks of training where I live, and I remember feeling more tired from the workouts. Otherwise, it’s more of a post-event rationalization.
    b. I did the drive over a day and a half and had a rest day, but had to get up early in the morning to drive up to Rainier. Usually the guiding company provides transport, but that option was removed because of COVID.
    c. Yes, usual breakfast early morning, and 2L of water with tailwind plus a few bagels with cheese, which should have been enough but clearly wasn’t given the heat.
    d. Unfortunately, guiding companies on Rainier are not super flexible. Private guided trips are not offered on Mt. Rainier to my knowledge. This is because 3 companies are allowed to run multiple trips and a few other companies are allowed to guide one trip/year by the National Park Service, and they all seem to want to take multiple clients. It’s easy to get private trips on Shasta, Adams or Baker for example, because they are not in National Parks. Getting a few buddies has been on my mind, but hard to co-ordinate so far. Could happen next time!

    As regards the Himalayan climb – that was on Saribung (6,328m) Lovely summit day with just three of us on the mountain with a spectacular view!

    Participant
    NandaDevi on June 9, 2020 at 11:46 pm · in reply to: Mountaineering muscular endurance #42601

    I tried another test. My HR after warm up and at the start of the 1 hour at constant pace and incline was ~155-156 bpm. There was 5.1% change in the avg HR from the first to the second 30 min after that, so I guess my AeT has gone up to ~154-155 bpm! That’s great. I did not see such an increase when I used the 16 week program last year, which speaks to the extended base building period in the 24 week program. Thanks, Guys! However for the remaining training period I will use the ~145 bpm as a cut off for effort – at 155 bpm pace it seemed like a lot more effort so it makes me worried about overtraining. But I can use the higher cut off as a guide to effort while hiking up to high camp. Hope this seems reasonable?

    Participant
    NandaDevi on June 5, 2020 at 10:41 pm · in reply to: Mountaineering muscular endurance #42444

    Thanks, Scott. I just did an AeT test on my treadmill. My HR after warm up and at the start of the 1 hour at constant pace and incline was 146 bpm. There was only 3.5% change in the avg HR from the first to the second 30 min, so it seems like the AeT has increased, though I will probably need another test to determine the new number. I have not tested the AnT in a long time (probably 9 months). I think the gap might be less than I think based on past numbers (AeT was tested at the start of the 24 week program), which is good news!

    Participant
    NandaDevi on June 4, 2020 at 4:11 pm · in reply to: Mountaineering muscular endurance #42410

    Thanks, Scott J and Scott S! Right now I’m on week 21 of the 24 week plan, which I will be extending by 4 more weeks since my climb got postponed. During this time I plan to repeat weeks 21 and 22 a few times before the tapering weeks (23 and 24). Weeks 21 and 22 have 1 ME workout per week and the weekend has hikes under AeT with 20%BW. Do you suggest replacing the ME workout with an AeT workout (say 2 hour run?), or doing an ME workout on alternate weeks?
    Thank you.

    Participant
    NandaDevi on June 4, 2020 at 2:43 pm · in reply to: Mountaineering muscular endurance #42402

    Also, fwiw, my AeT is ~145bpm, and AnT ~177bpm
    On the hill, I ascended about 845 ft/h with a ~73 lb pack with avg HR 148 bpm and max about 160-163 bpm
    On the stairs, my avg HR was 166 bpm, with a max of 180 bpm.

    Participant
    NandaDevi on June 4, 2020 at 10:42 am · in reply to: Mountaineering muscular endurance #42389

    Thanks, Scott. Yes, dropping weight even by 10 lbs would make it more comfortable:). If I increase weight it will just increase the stress on my back and shoulders and I will be forced to stop to rest them.

    Participant
    NandaDevi on June 4, 2020 at 10:39 am · in reply to: Extending 24 week plan by 4 weeks #42388

    Thanks, Scott. Yes, I will moderate the workouts as necessary. I was planning on dropping the Wednesday and Sunday workouts in week 23 too as recommended since the climb is in week 25.

    Participant
    NandaDevi on April 13, 2020 at 11:52 pm · in reply to: General Strength vs Mountaineering Max Strength #40480

    Josh, thanks for the suggestion! That’s a great idea – I’m looking into ways to elevate the treadmill without compromising its stability. It rests on wheels in front.

    Scott, thanks for the responses to my questions! I guess the 16″ box is a better match then.

    Participant
    NandaDevi on April 3, 2020 at 1:12 am · in reply to: General Strength vs Mountaineering Max Strength #40114

    Another question – for pull ups, I have been using the max strength pull up sequence from TftNA, even at the start of the general strength training sessions (because I can’t do many reps even without weight), and that has continued through the first few weeks of the max strength sessions. Shall I just continue with this (I will come to end of the sequence in a week and just go back and do another cycle of the same multi-week workout)?

    Thanks!

    Participant
    NandaDevi on December 31, 2019 at 8:58 pm · in reply to: Timing of Treadmill HR drift AeT test #35263

    Thanks very much, Scott! Yes, the timing wasn’t ideal. I will redo this after a few weeks, starting first thing in the morning.

    Happy New Year!

    Participant
    NandaDevi on December 31, 2019 at 12:52 am · in reply to: Timing of Treadmill HR drift AeT test #35204

    Here is the test attached with the relevant hour from 23 min to 1 h 23 min. Also, the warm up was by initially increasing walking pace and then gradually raising the treadmill to maximum incline (15%). Is there a difference in warming up this way, vs starting with the max incline and increasing the pace?

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    Participant
    NandaDevi on July 8, 2019 at 12:07 pm · in reply to: AeT treadmill workout – brisk walk vs slow jog #24713

    Thanks, RachelP and Scott.

    Cheers.

    Participant
    NandaDevi on April 4, 2019 at 11:07 am · in reply to: Lactate threshold #19837

    Scott, thanks very much for the detailed feedback. In response to your points:

    1. I don’t quite remember, but I *think* I had a light breakfast on the morning of the test. The weird thing about the data is also that the lactate levels are given in mmol/dL, and one would have to multiply by 10 to get numbers in mmol/L (mM), in which case a baseline level of 20 mM does not make sense! I think it is probably a typo.
    2. There was definitely no 15 minute warm up. I think there was at most 5 minutes of warm up, and at the pace that was used for the test.
    3. Each stage was 4 minutes long.
    4. At the time I would go “jogging” for an hour at what seemed to me “nose-breathing” pace, and my average HR would be in the mid-150s at a pace of about 4.2 mph. Now I am in the 13th week of the 16 week program during which I have been training at/below my AeT as determined by the HR drift test using a treadmill (145 bpm). Yesterday I had a recovery run/hike and used a treadmill. At 4 mph, I had to crank up the treadmill incline to 2.5% to get my HR between 125 & 130! Your program has made a big difference in my aerobic capacity!
    I’m going on my Himalayan expedition in 2 weeks, but after I’m back, I would like to continue the workouts at or below AeT to a)improve my aerobic capacity and b)raise my aerobic threshold
    The question is, how many hours of training at/below AeT would be necessary to accomplish a) and b), or at least a) (depending on time commitment)? I recall seeing a post by you on this forum where I think you recommended at least 8 hours a week?

    Thanks!

    Participant
    NandaDevi on March 31, 2019 at 9:22 pm · in reply to: Shin pain from maximum strength box step ups #19639

    Hi Pete,

    I am now at the point where I can do the heel touches with weights while balanced on the left leg. I think what seemed to make a big difference is doing a few warm up sets without added weight, and also using mountaineering boots instead of sneakers (which I was using earlier). The additional support seems to help. Thanks again for the help!!

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