Very helpful info, thanks Scott! I have some of the same or similar issues – main objective is winter season and my training program is basically a full year, so requires extending the base period.
Mariner_9
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ParticipantMariner_9 on March 30, 2017 at 5:19 am · in reply to: How to Extend Base Period (Plus Dealing With Mid-Phase Surgery) #4405Participant
Hi Ptaylor,
FWIW: I had been using the Stairmaster a couple of years ago but changed to weighted box steps because of the body weight issue. However, doing so caused problems with my knees. I’m currently doing laps in a high rise instead which does not seem to cause any knee issues. Being outdoors is of course best – and is also fine for my knees – but the nearest mountain is a 5-hour drive for me each way! Not very practical.
ParticipantPerhaps Dr. Doom could comment. In “Extreme Alpinism” he wrote, “Before climbing Alaska’s Mount Hunter, I did not train outdoors…I spent an hour a day, three days a week, “running” 4,000 vertical feet on the Stairmaster”.
My impression was the Stairmaster was problematic because of the body weight issue that Scott mentioned, but if it worked for Mark then perhaps it can work for others (or is it simply the case that he was so fit already that the Stairmaster wasn’t what helped?).
ParticipantMariner_9 on March 21, 2017 at 5:57 pm · in reply to: How to train Max Strength when you can’t train Max Strength #4310Thanks, Scott, I appreciate you taking the time to respond. I’ve passed on your comments to my friend. She has a PT who specializes in hypermobility – hopefully they can incorporate your suggestions into a training plan that will avoid injury.
Participant“High intensity workouts need to be dine when you are well fueled on carbs”
Does this include strength training? (either General Strength in the Transition Period or Max Strength in the Base Period).
Considering re-organizing my day to train in the morning rather than the evening.
ParticipantAfter some back and forth with the company, what they told me was that the results of the testing can be used to alter the emphasis in your training rather than change the ‘sport’ for which you’re training. The example they gave was changing the number of reps and sets in a strength training period depending on your genetic predisposition toward power or endurance. When I countered that doing so might change the quality being trained (e.g. from maximum recruitment to hypertrophy), they responded that rep ranges for training a given quality are averages and are not necessarily applicable to an individual (which seems plausible, but I lack the knowledge to comment definitively).
That was as much as I got. I remain somewhat skeptical, especially as the paper they produced in support of the product uses a small sample (N=28), has very few uphill athletes (N=4), is based on a short training program (8 weeks vs. 32 in TFNA) and has what to me seems like a very odd endurance test (3-minutes of exercise on a stationary bike).
ParticipantI’ll second the recommendation for the Kotler book.
Climbing-specific recommendation: Julian Lines’ book.
Other literature suggestions: follow the money?! There are a number of books on the psychology of risk taking in financial markets. The Psychology of Risk is good. The author is a former sports psychologist.
ParticipantIn other activities that involve risk taking, there are a number of techniques I know that people use, including meditation/mindfulness/breathing exercises (mostly for emotional regulation), affirmations (i.e. positive thinking), visualization, and scenario planning. I can’t think of any specific books/blogs etc. but perhaps some of the topics are worth investigating.
ParticipantThanks, Scott. Reminds me of what Ed Visteurs was told when a test showed he had a high V02Max reading – “You chose your parents well”.
ParticipantMariner_9 on February 20, 2017 at 1:18 am · in reply to: Fitting trips into your training plan #4117Thank you both for your replies.
ParticipantI count all these small volumes as active recovery rather than training. For me, the small volumes add up about 6 hours per week (I count them via a fitness tracker).
I’m sure they have some benefit but I don’t think that the volume or intensity merits counting them as training.
ParticipantMariner_9 on February 10, 2017 at 3:30 am · in reply to: Aerobic Capacity Training vs. Muscular Endurance Training #4059Thanks, Scott.
I was confused because TFNA says (re: Weeks 9-16 of the base period), “If you have not been, now is the time to begin to carry weight on the two long Zone 1 workouts”.
I interpreted that as meaning that I should be carrying weight during Z1/Z2/Z3 workouts earlier in the base period or even in the transition period.
ParticipantThanks for the clarification – makes sense.
ParticipantOut of curiosity, I weighted my gear (skins + splitboard + bindings + boots + socks) which came to 8.69KG. Seemed like a lot given it’s more than 10% of my body weight. There’s not much room to shave off weight from the gear given that I use fairly light bindings and what should be a reasonably light board (Carbon Solution).
Anyway, I’ve started training (high-rise stair climbs) with ankle weights and I’ll gradually build up both the weight on my ankles and the weight on my back until I get to my “goal day” weight .
ParticipantHi Colin,
Please can you explain what you mean by “fitness utilization than fitness accumulation”?