Shortening strength training?

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March 22, 2017 at 9:52 pm #4344

sambedell
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I am curious if there is ever a situation where you would shorten the different strength phases? Say, from 8 weeks down to 6 weeks for general strength and/or max strength. Thinking specifically for someone who has had 2 TftNA training cycles and a background in structured training and wants to really target the ME workouts but only has a set # of weeks to prepare for a trip. Or is this a situation of jumping the gun where laying the base is still going to be more important?

Thanks,

Sam
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Posted In: General Training Discussion

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Anonymous on March 25, 2017 at 6:54 pm #4361

Sam;

You can for sure shorten the General conditioning period and the Max period before starting into ME workouts. Actually, anyone can go straight to ME without passing GO or collecting $200. It will still work. The General phase is for conditioning and health and safety for those without much strength background or with a long lay off. The Max will give you a better base upon which to add ME. If you are pretty strong then I’d say shorten Max and got o the more specific ME sooner. You’ll still get good gains. Very individual so you have to try and see how it works for you.

Scott

Participant

sambedell on March 26, 2017 at 6:50 pm #4366

Thanks Scott! I’m planning out my next cycle and that definitely gives me more options to consider.

Out of interest, how much strength would you guys say is “sufficient” for a good ME program? I realize that the definition of sufficient varies depending on the athlete and their goals. Is there a formula or framework you use for saying MS is good, we’re moving to ME? Do you have a benchmarks in mind for where someone should be in MS or ME for specific classic objectives (for example Liberty Ridge, Cassin, Cassin in a day, Makalu W Pillar alpine style)?

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Anonymous on March 28, 2017 at 9:58 pm #4392

Sam;

I wish there were such easy formulas we could apply to training prescriptions.

General rule:
You need to look at the strength requirements of the event you are training for. Climbing a steep couloir with a heavy a pack? If you can only step on a 14″ box 10 times with a 50lb box before your legs are screaming then you need to increase strength before worrying about ME too much. Your strength reserve is too low.

Recall my good friend Tony Yaniro’s quote in our book: “If you are not strong enough to pull the move you have nothing to endure”. In a high strength event like sport climbing you need to build a good strength reserve (strength surplus) before moving to ME. I’m there right now with my own finger strengthening routine on the hang board. I’m using Josh’s plan BTW (excellent). I don’t have to even think about ME yet cuz I can’t hold on to the tiny edges yet. I am way to weak to consider endurance training yet.

So, for something like mountain running where the strength requirements are fairly low then ME rules. Kilian does NO strength training. Only specific ME type workouts.

I know many athletes and coaches who get by just fine with lots of ME and minimal Max Strength.
With David Goettler we do no Max strength but lots of ME. It is so individual there is no recipe.

Keep training, keep experimenting. That’s what we do and try to figure shit out.
Scott

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