From what I see in your post you are climbing every day, lifting 5 days a week and doing aerobic training every day with one day of the being hard.

I think the reason you are not seeing improvement is very likely that you are training too much and too hard. 23 hours/week a very high training load. Especially when many of those workouts are hard strength training.

As an 18 year old you are still many years from your peak fitness. You need to gradually build to high volumes of training. I’d suggest more resting between hard workouts and less intense training overall.

Also, you general strength is already very high 2.3x bodyweight for DL is a lot for anyone other than a sprinter of football player. You will make your best gains by focusing on technical skills at this age. The fitness will come if you are patient.

Scott

For big alpine routes like you desire to do you need the whole enchilada: Skills and Fitness. It takes years to maximally build these. The skill set for alpine climbing is huge and you need to refine it on a progression of smaller routes as you build up to these major routes. I’d focus more on alpine climbing specific strength: The ability to go steeply uphill fast and the upper body and core to pull hard moves. I’d cut way back or drop things like squat and dead lift. I make the bulk of the aerobic work on steep up hills. Plenty of those in the Canadian Rockies.

BTW: Slipstream is a dangerous route with unpredictable serac fall potential. My partner Steve House said he would never climb that thing. There are MANY other great routes up there that do not entail so much objective risk.

Scott