[pieterjan]

pieterjan on March 13, 2020 at 6:34 am · in reply to: Continuous Climbing At Home #39523

That’s so helpful! Thanks a lot!

So if I’m not mistaken (10) 6x 7”/3” (1′), is short for 10 holds, 6 reps consisting of 7 secs hang, 3 secs rest, and 1 minute rest between holds right?

[pieterjan]

pieterjan on July 10, 2019 at 1:18 am · in reply to: Strengthen joints for running #24799

Thanks a lot everyone! Those are all great pointers! Great to receive some personal experience on this one as well. I found I do have very tight quadriceps, since they hurt like hell when foam rolling.

Does anyone has any experience with bare foot running? It’s supposed to help improve the muscles in the legs and feet and help with technique as well, because the running speed drops and the pace quickens (which is healthier). It has to be very carefully build up of course. I haven’t tried it yet because of fear for injury.

[pieterjan]

pieterjan on February 26, 2019 at 2:13 am · in reply to: Shoulder issues #17007

What worked for me was training the rotator cuffs, along with the rhomboids and lower traps, which are common to be underdeveloped by climbers.

Every time I’d train those last two, I felt my shoulders being pulled backwards and my shoulders always felt relieved after training the rotator cuffs. Like it freed up some space in there.

The value of dead hangs can be great for shoulder strength. Some exercises can be found here: http://www.idoportal.com/blog/hanging

[pieterjan]

pieterjan on February 23, 2019 at 12:58 am · in reply to: First training plan: make it myself or not #16950

Thanks a lot both on the quick and useful replies!

I’m only just lookin at the yearly program (I’m talking about the one in the book btw, not the one on the website). I have done some strength and half-marathon training last year, but nothing comparable to this, so I don’t have a clue how I’ll respond.

I’ll do a lot of hiking and running so I hope I’m not too deficient. Anyway I think both training plans will yield me with some good (but not the best, because of the short period) results, I’m ok with that.

I’m just wondering from which I would learn the most and I’m guessing, from your answers, that checking out another pre-made plan might be a good idea, if only just to link it to the theory in the book.

[pieterjan]

pieterjan on February 22, 2019 at 8:23 am · in reply to: Shoulder issues #16926

Hi

What exercises do you do? Impingement is usually due to underdeveloped rotator cuffs. Doing some max strength training (with dumbells, not just rubber bands!) should help with that (if you don’t have a tear of course). Great exercises are internal and external rotator cuff rotations, but careful not to overdo yourself, especially if you have a tear or inflammation. I wouldn’t advise too much resting since the muscles will weaken and it’ll just get worse.

I have quite some imbalances myself, but whenever I do such a workout my shoulders always feels relieved and stronger.

Good luck!