First training plan: make it myself or not

  • Creator
  • #16925

    I read the book “Training for the new alpinism”, and found it more than interesting! It inspired me in ways I have yet to discover.

    Now, I’m very new in the world of mountaineering (did a technical course last year, so basically starting on my own this season). I have experience with multiday hiking and rock climbing but never gotten into any structured training, apart from some weekly running or stability training.

    Within 11 weeks from now I’m going on a 6 day trip which includes an F-PD climb each day (and 1 rest day) in the region around Arolla (Pigne d’Arolle, Mont blanc de cheilon, etc.), so nothing extreme, experience is the goal. I’ll probably get by just doing nothing, but I really wish to excel.

    I wanted to construct a training plan myself, with the info given in the book, because obviously that would be a very educational experience, however I’m struggling to cut down the 24 week training plan described, into a 10 week plan, which contains the essentials for my trip. I can’t just do the first 10 weeks of the program, because that would just prepare me for more training, not for the trip.

    So I guess I need to do something like a 2 week transition (General Str), and then 4 weeks max str and 4 weeks str endurance for example? Does that makes sense? It’s so simple that it looks like it doesn’t.

    Maybe the safest option here might be getting into the “8 Week Mountaineering Training Plan”, which I think matches my starting level and goal, and learn from that. I don’t know.

  • Participant
    TerryLui on #16940

    I would imagine if you’ve got a shortened training window then using one of the pre-made plans will make things easier for you.
    I found following a plan to ease the learning curve, especially since during that time I am also learning about my own body, strengths/weaknesses, injury, recovery, etc.

    I’m only on my 2nd year with the program and have only just begun making some small adjustments to prescribed plans from UA. Mostly related to rest & recovery.

    Good luck!

    Anonymous on #16945


    Have you used the 24 week plan before? If so then how did it go for you? If you are just starting it or only just looking at it, how does the overall training volume appear to you compared to what you have done in the past.

    While there is some challenge these plans can be customized by the user. As Terry mentions it is best if you have run through the plan before and know how you body reacts to the training.

    Without knowing you, your background or current fitness level I can only make a guess. I would recommend 2 weeks of transition + the first 4 weeks of the base period then a shift to the final 4 weeks of the base period. This will hit all the training components.

    Be aware that aerobic deficiency will be the biggest problem on the mountain and in the training. If you are aerobically deficient then 10 weeks is too short of a time to make much change.


    pieterjan on #16950

    Thanks a lot both on the quick and useful replies!

    I’m only just lookin at the yearly program (I’m talking about the one in the book btw, not the one on the website). I have done some strength and half-marathon training last year, but nothing comparable to this, so I don’t have a clue how I’ll respond.

    I’ll do a lot of hiking and running so I hope I’m not too deficient. Anyway I think both training plans will yield me with some good (but not the best, because of the short period) results, I’m ok with that.

    I’m just wondering from which I would learn the most and I’m guessing, from your answers, that checking out another pre-made plan might be a good idea, if only just to link it to the theory in the book.

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