Not sure where you’re staying but downtown has lots of great options. 49th State is my favorite for beer and food. Glacier brew house is also great.
Also alaska mountaineering and hiking is a good place to restock. The REI in town is also well stocked.
Other good breweries (not in downtown) are Turnagain, Midnight sun, and out in girdwood; girdwood brewing.
Hope that helps.
Anna
Anna Hern
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ParticipantParticipant
Steps from an RMI guide. I’ve practiced a his in my backyard using a Halloween decorative skeleton and one of my sons larger stuffed animals. It’s not perfect but helps keep the practice up.
Steps…
Catch fall
Commuicate to see if middle person has the weight of the fallen climber
release all weight to middle person
Put a friction hitch (auto block) on rope leading to middle person and walk toward them with ice axe
get to middle person, build anchor
transfer load off of middle person by attaching friction hitch to loaded stranded and clipping it to the master point of anchor (locking carabiner)
back up friction hitch with a clove hitch on the shelf (can be non-locking carabiner)
tell middle person to slowly release all the weight onto the anchor, untie their knot
milk the clove to get all the slack out between it and the friction hitch
*you are now at baseline*
Next go check on the fallen climber
Attach a friction hitch to the unloaded strand of rope and slowly approach the lip of the crevasse with your ice axe in hand
communicate with your fallen climber (are they ok, injured, is their an overhang)
pad the lip with your ice axe, work the lip so the rope isn’t cut into the snow
Put a friction hitch on the loaded strand
clip the unloaded strand to the friction hitch with a non-locker, behind your personal friction hitch so you can re-ascend the fixed line
*you have created a 2:1 pulley*
make the current configuration a 3:1 by undoing one of the lobes of the clove hitch, keep a hand on the unloaded strand as you do this
*now you have a 3:1*
Begin to haul your fallen climber out
Have someone tend to the friction hitch near the master point so it doesnt get sucked through the master point
to re-set the 3:1 move the lower friction hitch towards the lip of the crevasse**Remember to communicate with your fallen climber when they are near the lip. You can pull them into the lip of the crevasse and kill them. DO NOT BREAK YOUR FALLEN CLIMBERS NECK by hauling them into the side of the crevasse**
Gear:
2 locking carabiner (this is at the master point, one is on you for your personal friction hitch)
4 non-locking carabiners (2 are on the anchor, one for the lower friction hitch, one for the clove)
3 prusik cords (2 for friction hitches in the pulley system, 1 your person friction hitch, 6mm cord 2 at 6′ each and one at 12′)
1 anchor cord (7mm 15-25′)
2 picketsParticipantAnna Hern on March 19, 2022 at 4:57 pm · in reply to: Abu Dhabi – ideal acclimatisation for Denali! #64562I am not doing Denali, but I have done a fair amount of training in DXB for ultras and mountaineering events. The UAE has great gyms fwiw. Good treadmills and stair mills at most gyms I’ve been too. Plus the strength workouts should be easy to accomplish in a gym. I have been up in the jebel jais but it gets wicked hot! Be aware and take LOTS of water. There’s not too much out there. Not sure where/how you’ll get a lot of sled workouts in but keep us posted as I could benefit from that in the future.
ParticipantThat would make sense. I’m on the road about half the month and don’t carry a computer. Thanks
ParticipantAnna Hern on January 14, 2022 at 3:13 am · in reply to: Training peaks fitness numbers to events #62118That’s exactly what I needed. Thank you so much!
AnnaParticipantAgain apologies for the long delayed response… I ended up experimenting a bit with your info. I had another warm (30F start to 50F at the afternoon) ski day and a 30F hike/run with a weighted pack (about 20% of body wt.) I wasn’t super cold at all on the hike/run and I was using much thinner lines leather gloves. That was with my HR near/at the AeT. However skiing, although much, much warmer I used mittens (which did help a lot as Mark predicted) and was slightly cold in the morning. And of course my HR never got near the top of Z1. I think with the combo of mittens/warmers and movement I may survive in the mountains after all. Even last July on rainier I wasn’t as miserably cold and I think that was in large part to movement when I think back on it. I really appreciate your input and apologize again for not getting back to you sooner.
Anna
ParticipantSorry for the delay but thank you so much for the information Mark! I have a couple ski trips before my Ecuador trip in February so I’ll give them a try. Thank you again!
ParticipantThanks for the input. Sadly the chemical warmers don’t do anything to keep my finger tips warm. I’ll look into your glove suggestions though.
Thanks again.ParticipantQuick question for you Denali folks. Denali is a dream but I was told it’ll never happen (at least with a guided group) because I cannot carry a 65 lb pack. (I’m about 105 on a heavy day and just don’t see myself carrying 62% of my body weight on a mountain like Denali). I saw some of y’all are going with groups but also read some people are training to pull sleds. Is there a guided group that allows sled pulling? I feel like that’s more realistic for me.
I fly in and out of ANC a few times a month from Asia and am often graced with beautiful views of Denali. I wish I was going with y’all!
Thanks in advance and wish y’all all the best.
AnnaParticipantSpeaking of other workouts/activites…I swim a lot in addition to the run/hike/yoga activities of mountaineering. I know y’all do not recommend swimming for training but I have runner’s ischemic colitis and have found that I can swim hard/long and have no health issues associated with swimming. In fact I climbed Rainier successfully last summer with about 95% of my training as long swims. Not ideal and hoping to do much more running leading up to my next climb, but I have to protect my overall health first. I do plan to use swimming for recovery workouts, etc throughout this training plan. I began reading up on the sTSS score training peak uses specifically for swimming, however, even my hard swims are coming up with extremely low sTSS values. I am wondering if something isn’t recording correctly. Also, are these low sTSS values making my CTL lower than it actually is? I feel like I have a much higher level of fitness than training peaks is giving me credit for. I’ve never been a metrics person in terms of training (minus hours/week or mileage/yardage) so I’m just trying to gauge what everything means and if I’m kidding myself about my level of fitness and what that means for my next climb.
Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance,
AnnaParticipantAnna Hern on November 6, 2021 at 7:51 pm · in reply to: Questions about Training Peaks Metrics #58903thank you!
ParticipantI was hoping to not purchase anymore gadgets. Is the test (this program) worthless with only the watch HR monitor?
TIAParticipantAnna Hern on November 6, 2021 at 4:49 pm · in reply to: Questions about Training Peaks Metrics #58897How do you upload past Garmin data into training peaks?
TIAParticipantFantastic thanks! Sorry I missed the call
ParticipantI’m in Southern Arizona (for about half the month) the rest I’m on the road traveling. Mostly Asia (so hotel quarantine) or Europe/Middle East/India.
Did Rainier last July and got hooked and doing an RMI seminar in Ecuador February 2022.
Anna
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