Repeaters for Ice Axe Hangs

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  • #41240
    uk_climber
    Participant

    TFTNA has ice axe hangs in the max strength section, 10 second hangs with either added weight or one arm (or both) at near your limit.

    I’ve found this fairly difficult to do. With two arms I added 60kg and it wasn’t hard enough, any more weight would just be silly. With one arm I find my shoulders play up, so scrapped that as injury is way worse than sub optimal training.

    I switched to adding ice axe hangs to my normal fingerboard repeaters session. One set of 6 reps, 10 seconds per rep, 5 seconds rest between reps. I’ve found myself making good progress and certainly feel stronger. While this is more on the endurance side than max weight hangs it is certainly still in strength.

    Anyone else tried something similar to this with success or have any other thoughts? This protocol works for finger strength, I assume it also works for ice axe strength.

  • Moderator
    Scott Semple on #41359

    I think you’ve found that you no longer need to train max strength with ice tools. And your max fingerboard routine makes sense to me.

    Another one I’ve been trying (with the intent of mimicking a gym-based “big lift” protocol) is multiple series of 4x 3″ with 1″ rest and 2′ recoveries between series. So with a stopwatch running, I look at the display and think (on the second), “Start, 1, 2, stop, start, 1, 2, stop, start, 1, 2, stop, start, 1, 2, stop.” Then rest two minutes.

    By doing that, I’ve found that I can get more time under tension than repeats of 10″ hangs at the same weight.

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