Critique my 26 week training plan

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  • #6625

    Here’s the training plan I’ve put together, starting as soon as I get off ship in a weeks time. I’ve got a lactate threshold an VO2 max test booked for midway through week one.

    I’ve made a couple of adjustments tailored to myself, for example the weeks start on Saturday as I have plenty of time at the weekend to do long efforts and this way I won’t end up having to limit what I do at the weekend to stay below a threshold (though obviously I will be limiting it to stick to the plan, I’d rather do long stuff at the weekend then have the week for strength and making up volume than the other way round).

    It seems to me that a lot of my time will be in Z1 (which, if I’m right, is approx aerobic threshold minus 15bpm. Is this right or should I have more time in z2 (just below AeT)?

    Criticism and advice welcome. Sorry for the poor image quality.

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    Anonymous on #6684


    The plan looks good. My only comment is: If you get in a time crunch drop the cragging days and add in more aerobic training. The West Buttress of Denali is a walk up and your won’t need almost any technical skills for it, certainly not needing to climb 6a. Whereas all the aerobic hiking and running you can do on hilly and mountain terrain will pay off big for a climb like that. And especially if it lead in to more pack carrying on days with a bunch of vertical. You’re training to make yourself into a beast of burden.

    If you pull off this plan I give you a 90% chance of success provided the weather gods are with you.


    Jason Antin on #6696

    Agreed with Scott!

    I wrote a training plan for West Butt + Cassin Ridge for this past AK season using the aerobic training (Specifically WTD pack carry progression) from the Uphill Athlete 24-week Expedition Plan, my own Strength & Condition program from The Alpine Training Center, and “simulator” outings (much like you’ve listed in your own programing).

    I found my training to be spot-on for the objectives and we were able to summit the First time on the WB in 8 days, then again via the Cassin Ridge a few days later. We did not have great weather, but were able to move quickly which allowed us to acclimatize under mediocre conditions.

    A few other things, often over-looked when training for a Denali WB Adventure:
    1) Learn to be really good at winter camping.
    2) If you are fit enough to summit from 14K and back in a reasonable time, you will have more opportunities/weather windows to summit – and thus more time to do Cassin.
    3) The sleds crush people. Go in there ready to crush the sled.

    Good luck!


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