Advanced Rock Climbing

Intermediate, Advanced

8 weeks

Rate of Perceived Exertion (RPE) based

Unleash the power training before project season.

This one took shape in the minds of Josh Wharton and Steve House at the Black Canyon’s notorious north rim.

The plan is designed to bring the power of structured training to intermediate and advanced climbers with decent base climbing fitness, and create a peak performance period which can be utilized for an upcoming trip, or a specific goal route. It is ideal for climbers operating in the 5.10 to upper 5.12+ range. The plan operates on the assumption of a Monday through Friday work schedule.

Required equipment: A simple notebook to use as a training log, access to a commercial climbing gym or home wall, fingerboard, and TRX kit. Access to outdoor climbing is preferred, but not required.

Workouts have been labeled with “a.m.” or “p.m.” when timing is important. The aim of this is to spread the load, maximize rest time, and increase workout quality. The plan will still work if you are unable to spread the workouts out as prescribed, but will likely be somewhat less effective. Skip optional workouts first whenever time constraints are an issue. Swap Saturday and Sunday workouts to take advantage of better weather for outdoor climbing, but only do this when absolutely necessary.

This plan is based on your RPE, or “Rate of Perceived Exertion,” where workout intensities are guided by how hard you are working based on your perception of effort (how hard the workout feels to you) rather than by heart rate.

Whether you use an RPE-based or heart rate-based training plan, we recommend that you use a chest-strap heart rate monitor and GPS watch to log all your training.

Eight weeks to send town.

Training written and tested by Steve House and Josh Wharton.
Workouts designed to balance load and rest time.
Guidance supporting how to prioritize and schedule correctly.
Workouts uploaded to your smartwatch or GPS device.*
Email and chat support.
Buy it once. Own it forever. Unlimited updates.

*Apple Watch syncing is currently not supported for RPE plans.

If you want workout intensity guided by perception of effort, you can purchase the RPE version here.

Gain the advantage of learning from the foremost experts and cutting-edge climbers in the field.

Questions?

How can I get the most out of this training plan?

A common skill amongst advanced and expert climbers is the ability to try really hard! This is a trained skill, and cannot be underestimated. In order for you to get the most out of this training cycle it’s important that you give everything; particularly during the Fingerboard Repeater, Fingerboard Max Hang, Circuit Boulder, Limit Boulder Circuit, and Power Endurance workouts. Over time, trying hard will become a habit and translate into long-term performance gains.

A climbing gym is mandatory. It’s also preferable, but not necessary, that you have access to outdoor climbing.

Recommended but not required: Download the Beastmaker fingerboard app. It’s an excellent way to time your fingerboard workouts (use the custom timer).

We also recommend the Rock Prodigy Training Logbook, which has an excellent form for recording your fingerboard workouts.

What should I do prior to starting this plan?

This plan assumes a significant level of experience, skill, and strength for rock climbing. If you are a newer climber or have not been able to put in a focused effort, we suggest the Beginner to Intermediate Rock Climbing plan.

What should I do after I complete this plan?

If you are looking to improve your route climbing skills, check out our three-part series of Route Climbing plans.

Don't believe us?

Thanks Josh for the Advanced Training Program. I'm cycling through it again... it sure works! Sent my first 5.13 this weekend, stoked!

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