I have a similar problem. My closest climbing gym has a phenomenal training setup with every hangboard/campus board you can imagine, and great options for weights and cardio equipment. It’s a phenomenal place for strength training. The climbing however consists of tons of bouldering but only 4 autobelay stations that are geared towards small children. My guess is that the hardest “route” ever set on the autobelay wall has probably been 5.6. I’ve been coming at this problem by using the autobelay with boots and an alpine pack and setting a timer for 25-30min and continuously up and down climbing on the autobelay trying to keep things really smooth, efficient, and (emphasis) easy. Alternatively, when I want to practice slightly more complex footwork or moves I up-and-down climb boulder problems that are several grades lower than my limit (I stick to problems that I can comfortably onsight both up and down without getting worked). I avoid the overhanging sections and try to stick to vertical faces. I link a bunch of easy problems together so that I feel as though I am working on endurance but never really pulling any powerful moves. Probably not the best option, but it lets me make due with what is available and convenient to my house. In my mind, if I don’t have muscle soreness the next day and I feel like I could go back and do the same workout the day after (currently doing that about 1x per week) then I consider that successful. Mind you, I’m not using this as a true muscular endurance workout at the moment – more to keep some climbing form while I’m focused on building aerobic base and general strength ramping up to a springtime trail-running objective prior to launching into specific training for an alpine rock objective in mid-summer. Personally I like up and down climbing – makes you stick with stuff that’s within your limit and downclimbing in a pack and boots is not something I used to practice before but obviously is pretty applicable to alpine climbing. Also, if I can’t climb it in boots or approach shoes, it’s not a problem I’m going to include. Interested to hear how other people are doing it.
