[aset.danialov]

aset.danialov on February 27, 2018 at 9:46 pm · in reply to: Fat Adaptation Diet ideas #8306

This is a big grey area for me as well.
Lots of experimenting and trying.

Scott’s recommends splitting diet by 1/3 for protein, fats and carbs.
However, the easy way for me was to cut all carbs at all, keeping carbs only for days with Strength workout. The trick helping me to sustain the diet is meal prep for a week, i.e. all meals prepared on weekend, to battle the snacks – best is to keep some nuts handy. And do not keep any carb snacks at home.

The main challenge for me was to calculate and measure if I eat enough fat. I.e. how to ensure that enough amount is there with eggs, avocados, some butter,olive oil, meat, etc.
For me, it seems to impossible to calculate this.

[aset.danialov]

aset.danialov on February 13, 2018 at 2:23 am · in reply to: Fixing Aerobic Deficiency general timeline? tips? #8091

hi Jason,

I had exactly the same issue, my heart rate would go 150-160BPM the moment I switch from fast walking to slowest possible jogging.

I was doing some running between mountain trips and just gave up running on low pulse. It seemed that there is nothing possible to fix it, and doctors ensured that I have no heart deficiency of any kind. I never met anyone who had a similar problem, it seemed to be “abnormal” just for me, my pulse was higher than even amateurs to running.

However, I am following the Training plan set up by John, after 3 months I am now able to jog with 120-125 pulse. In the beginning, this probably seemed very funny – me trying to simulate running at lowest pace, like a slow-motion movie.

I need to admit, I was not doing very long aerobic training under the current program, and dont know how big was the impact of other exercises ( intervals, core & max strength) on my current performance.

Asset

[aset.danialov]

aset.danialov on January 14, 2018 at 10:10 pm · in reply to: Performance metrics for 8000m without supplemental oxygen #7609

I think there is no general metrics, the only useful metrics is to compare training you used to do for particular mountain and then decide where you are on the scale of preparedness.

I agree with Peter, there are people who can manage low 8k peak without much hard training, given they are in good shape and can do some intermittent aerobic exercise (running, etc.). On Manaslu I met a guy who did not train at all! for a year but he was 50% faster than anyone (even on the summit bid night), need to admit that he had few eight-thousanders under his belt already.

So yes, I believe no reliable metrics can be used to make 100% readiness check.
Isn’t that what makes mountaineering so interesting?)

[aset.danialov]

aset.danialov on November 25, 2017 at 11:06 am · in reply to: Sleeping at altitude without O's #6820

Hi John,

Just to share my experience sleeping on high camp on Manaslu.

During acclimatization I had sleepless first night at camp 3 (6800-6900?). During summit push, I had good sleep though on Camp 3. I did not acclimatize at Camp 4, and for evening before summit push, I think I was just in a half-sleep stage.

Before that I used to sleep on 6800m on Tian Shan mountains, it was totally fine. I think I had 3 nights in a row with good sleep.

Overall I agree, that higher than 7000 it almost no such thing as a comfortable sleep. Especially on new altitude this is case 100%.

I can’t correlate sleep quality if you had tiring day before. It is all connected to acclimatization rate. If you had easy day and not acclimatized – you will not sleep. If you had tough day climbing, but body is acclimitizing, you will have a sleep.

For me the sleep won’t really help before summit bid and usually people don’t really sleep per se right before summit push. However, during acclimatization is crucial to sleep, that is good indication that your body is Acclimatazing

For you it might depend also on how long you do high altitude mountaineering. In the beginning I was not able to sleep on 4000m, then after some time i didn’t have such issue.

Asset.