[amathie]

amathie on October 11, 2019 at 2:04 am · in reply to: Survey: How do you find climbing partners? #30066

Thanks Terry! I’ve already posted it to MP, UKClimbing and various climbing subreddits. Had a pretty good response so far.

Thanks for the heads up about Huck — I hadn’t come across that. As you say, useful to know about!

[amathie]

amathie on March 1, 2019 at 9:48 am · in reply to: Coming back to training after a two week trip #17270

Just for anyone reading this thread in the future — I’ve just seen this post from September which was also useful (my bad for not searching before posting!)

When we have to stop training…

[amathie]

amathie on March 1, 2019 at 9:45 am · in reply to: Coming back to training after a two week trip #17269

Thanks Scott, that’s super useful. Just to be clear, are you saying that ideally, one would have 2.5 days per unplanned day off (#1), but you can get away with doing (at least) 1 day per unplanned day off (#2)?

[amathie]

amathie on January 15, 2019 at 5:47 am · in reply to: Confusion About Transition Programming #15930

Hi Michael,

I found Scott’s replies in this thread from a few years back really helpful.

The upshot is that strength training is not well tracked by time. Naturally, you could spend the same length of time in the gym two weeks running but lift twice as heavy the second time as you did the first. Tracked by time, these workouts are the same, but in reality they’re totally different in terms of load.

What I’ve settled on, based on what I’ve read here, is taking the hourly volume as just aerobic. Any additional strength or climbing sessions, or stuff like stretching/foam rolling to be completed that week is on top of the weekly aerobic volume. If you do the same, you’d start off with 2.5 hours of aerobic volume plus whatever other workouts you have to fit in. Adjust from there. And be consistent in the way that you track your volume throughout the programme.

Hope that helps.
Alex

[amathie]

amathie on January 9, 2019 at 6:19 am · in reply to: How many ME workouts in a week? #15816

@Steve

Thanks Steve. That’s really helpful, especially the rule of thumb.

Strength-wise, my weeks currently look like this:

M: Off
T: Off/Max strength maintenance (alternating)
W: Off
T: ME
F: Off
S: Climb
S: Off

I’ll stick with this for the time being and keep a close eye on how I’m feeling. Will drop down to ME every ten days if needed.

Another thing — this seems to have way less core work than previous phases of the training. I generally do a short core routine as part of my warm up on my climbing day. And previously I had some core work as part of the max strength workout, but the ice/mixed training article suggests replacing this with a 10min aerobic warmup, some stretching and then 20 burpees and 20 pull-ups. I’m worried I’ll be losing core strength like this.

My intuition would be to replace the burpees and pull-ups with a max strength core routine as a warm up for my fortnightly max strength maintenance session. Any issues with that?

[amathie]

amathie on January 7, 2019 at 9:01 am · in reply to: How many ME workouts in a week? #15781

@Scott Johnston

Thanks Scott, that helps clear things up.

I am definitely keeping an eye on training intensity but just wanted to know what a good starting point would be. And was conscious that overdoing it with these powerful ME workouts had the potential to bury me.

Will stick to 1/week and see how it goes.

[amathie]

amathie on January 5, 2019 at 8:36 am · in reply to: How many ME workouts in a week? #15719

Sorry, that should read ‘Monday of Week 3’.

[amathie]

amathie on January 5, 2019 at 8:35 am · in reply to: How many ME workouts in a week? #15718

Hi both,

Thanks for your replies. Looking back, I don’t think my original questions was clear so let me rephrase.

If you do an ME workout on the Friday of Week 1 (assuming the week runs Mon-Sun) then in ten days, the next workout will be Monday or Week 3. This means that there is no Week 2 workout, and so I would be confused by Steve’s prescription of 2 rounds through the circuit in Week 2’s workout.

I suppose the issue is this — the article prescribes a certain number of rounds through the ME workout for each week. But if you only do the workout very ten days, some weeks actually don’t have an ME workout in them.

Does that make sense?

[amathie]

amathie on January 4, 2019 at 7:04 am · in reply to: Expedition partners (again) #15709

Sounds good Sam. I’m generally happy to climb with most folk as long as they are competent and safe, doesn’t matter too much about your grade.

Can’t seem to email you through here but drop me a message on my username @hotmail.co.uk

[amathie]

amathie on January 4, 2019 at 7:01 am · in reply to: Expedition partners (again) #15708

Thanks Steve and others for the advice.

Just turning up ready to go in the Khumbu or on the Kahiltna is an interesting idea, but I can’t help but feel that the risk of not finding anyone and having pissed a lot of cash down the drain is unacceptable for myself and most others!

I’ve recently become more involved with the Alpine Club here in the UK so hopefully that will lead to more partnerships in the future.

As for Tinder for climbers, you might be onto something there…