[Alan Russell]

Alan Russell on August 17, 2020 at 6:41 pm · in reply to: One-day multi-pitch packing list #44364

Thanks for the replies. As I said, the camera downsize is in progress (I just need to learn how to use my mirrorless), and I’m thinking I’ll try to take photocopies of guidebook pages when I’m reasonable sure of where I’m going (I’ve done it in the past) – it’d probably also help to preserve my guidebook! Good to see that we seem to be of a similar mind. I’ve got another, slightly smaller pack which is 1 kg (300 g lighter) that I’ve used in the past, but struggled to get everything in/on it, though if I lighten the contents, that may get easier.

A good shout also on the spare headtorch – my secondary is an older and heavier one, which is probably worth upgrading from.

I’m inclined to keep the spare laces and med. kit contents, as I’ve found them useful. Likewise with the pad and pens, though I think I can thin them.

I don’t know if you’re familiar with climbing in the Scottish mountains in summer, but insect repellent is essential survival kit!

The weather in Scotland is pretty changeable, hence the waterproofs, but I’m thinking I could thin down the insulation.

[Alan Russell]

Alan Russell on August 16, 2020 at 5:19 pm · in reply to: One-day multi-pitch packing list #44342

The camera and shoes are on my harness when climbing.

[Alan Russell]

Alan Russell on April 29, 2020 at 6:10 am · in reply to: T4C daily finger training protocol #41008

Cheers Scott, I’ll stick with the workout, but hold off on the supplements unless I find more compelling evidence.

[Alan Russell]

Alan Russell on April 27, 2020 at 3:05 pm · in reply to: T4C daily finger training protocol #40956

Cheers Scott, sounds like the supplements aren’t all that likely to be gamechanging if you don’t know if they help!

How about the workout, worthwhile?

[Alan Russell]

Alan Russell on April 3, 2020 at 12:52 pm · in reply to: Continuous Climbing At Home #40134

Thanks Scott, all very interesting. Look forward to seeing your article as and when it appears.

[Alan Russell]

Alan Russell on April 2, 2020 at 2:05 pm · in reply to: Continuous Climbing At Home #40087

Thanks Scott,

I’ve used counterweights slung over the beam my board is on when I had a finger injury, but it was a bit fiddly, so I’ll probably try just going on big holds for ARCing.

That’s interesting that you do the max strength and ARCing together – do you do a combined conditioning and max strength phase and if so, how do you structure it, i.e. how much max strength, how much ARC, do you do any other strength/aerobic training, and how do you fit it all together? How soon before your trip do you switch to PE?

I view hangboarding as supplement too i.e. something to be used when real climbing is unavailable. I’m expecting technique to suffer without actual climbing, but I’m glad I’ve got the board.

[Alan Russell]

Alan Russell on April 1, 2020 at 1:59 pm · in reply to: Continuous Climbing At Home #40062

Cool, thanks. Do you use weights/supports to adjust the resistance?

Are you periodising your training and if so do you include ARCing only in the conditioning/transition phase? Currently I’m trying to do a max. strength phase and have been doing the max. strength workout here (https://uphillathlete.com/kis-strength/) and the hangboard workout here (https://uphillathlete.com/rock-climbing-training-arcing/, though with only 10 s hangs and without weights at the moment) 3 days apart with running on the other days, though I’m planning to increase the frequency of the strength training to every 2 days with running on the intervening day as I didn’t seem to be making strength gains, but I’m wondering if I’d be better leaving them at the original frequency and/or adding ARCing.

[Alan Russell]

Alan Russell on April 1, 2020 at 1:05 pm · in reply to: Wrist-based heart rate monitors are useless. USE A CHEST STRAP. #40060

Yes, but I did it years ago, prior to me using TP, or even Movescount. I can show you recent outputs from TP, but I’m not sure that would show you what you want. This review on DC Rainmaker may be more helpful: https://www.dcrainmaker.com/2013/02/monitor-bluetooth-smartant.html.

It’s a discontinued device (it’s the Alpha you want rather than the Alpha 2 as it has a longer battery life), but you may be able to get one on ebay – I got a back-up one last year for less than £20. It’s not the most physically robust (I’m on my second (taped-up) one in 4 years) but it’s the best value I’ve found if chest straps cause you the skin irritation I had.

I’d be interested to hear of anyone’s experiences with the Garmin/Suunto watches with built in optical HR e.g. Fexix 5/Forerunner 935/Fexix 3 HR/Spartan Sport/Spartan Trainer/Suunto 9.

[Alan Russell]

Alan Russell on March 31, 2020 at 2:55 pm · in reply to: Continuous Climbing At Home #40039

This is very useful as I’m starting to think about how I could ARC at home with only a fingerboard without trying to find a way to hold on for several minutes!

For the 10 holds, is that 10 different pairs of holds? I’ve got a Beastmaker 1000 but I’m not sure if there are 10 pairs of holds that I could do 6 x 7 secs hang, 3 secs rest on, so in that case would you maybe repeat holds?

[Alan Russell]

Alan Russell on March 31, 2020 at 1:39 pm · in reply to: Wrist-based heart rate monitors are useless. USE A CHEST STRAP. #40036

I’ve been using a Mio Alpha wrist-based HRM with my Suunto Ambit 3 Sport and Peak for the last few years. I almost always find it as accurate as a chest strap.

I used to use a chest strap, but stopped when I was getting skin irritation.

[Alan Russell]

Alan Russell on November 20, 2018 at 1:43 pm · in reply to: ARCing during iceclimbing prep #14541

Ah ok. So do you still do any of the 2-3 x 20-30 minutes climbing training (like this https://uphillathlete.com/rock-climbing-training-arcing/) or has the 10-12 x 1-3 minutes on, 1 minute off replaced them? It sounds a little like TINSTAAFL!

[Alan Russell]

Alan Russell on November 16, 2018 at 1:31 pm · in reply to: Recs for smallish fitness watch with decent wrist HR monitor? #14492

If you get a chance, try a Mio Alpha.

[Alan Russell]

Alan Russell on November 16, 2018 at 1:16 pm · in reply to: ARCing during iceclimbing prep #14491

Not sure! I thought that ARC training should not lead to a pump. The protocol of 10-12 x 1-3 min’s on, 1 min off looks similar to anaerobic, rather than aerobic endurance (as I understand them). Is the purpose of the exercise to provide aerobic and anaerobic stimulus, or anaerobic / strength stimulus for someone who already does / has done a lot of aerobic climbing training?

Alan

[Alan Russell]

Alan Russell on November 11, 2018 at 1:20 pm · in reply to: ARCing during iceclimbing prep #14394

That’s really interesting. Does that mean that your ARC sessions have increased in intensity? Is the climbing time still the same i.e. 60-90 minutes per session?

Alan

[Alan Russell]

Alan Russell on November 11, 2018 at 12:45 pm · in reply to: Recs for smallish fitness watch with decent wrist HR monitor? #14393

I use a Mio Alpha (original, not the 2 as the original has better battery life) for HRM which uses bluetooth to pass the data to my Ambit 3 Sport. I’m on my second Mio (the buttons aren’t all that durable), but I got my present one from ebay for £29. I got my first one in February 2016 as I was getting skin irritation from chest-straps, and I find the accuracy pretty much as good as a chest-strap. You can see a review on dcrainmaker.

This would mean that you would be wearing two watches during training where you want HR monitoring (the Mio, and your Ambit 3 / similar). If you wanted to avoid this, I think your best option is the Suunto 9, though it’s expensive and not small.

Alan