T4C daily finger training protocol

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  • #40921
    Alan Russell

    Anyone got much experience with this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dypY0F6qw0 (workout and/or supplement)? I’ve just started doing the workout this week, but haven’t gone for the supplement. I’d be interested in hearing from anyone here who has more knowledge / longer term experience. Is the supplement worthwhile, and/or is it possible to get similar effects from food(s)?



Posted In: Climbing

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    Anonymous on #40952

    First, I have no idea if the supplements help. Maybe they do, maybe they don’t. I don’t have enough knowledge to say either way.

    Second, Horst is incentivized to say that they do work. He sells the product.

    Again, maybe it helps, maybe it doesn’t. But biases should always be taken into account, so his claims should be discounted purely because the bias is present. If you’re curious, it would be best to read the original study (and find out what the study’s designers and sponsors do for a living) and/or ask an impartial nutritionist.

    Alan Russell on #40956

    Cheers Scott, sounds like the supplements aren’t all that likely to be gamechanging if you don’t know if they help!

    How about the workout, worthwhile?

    Anonymous on #40985

    Just to be clear about the supplements, I have no idea. To repeat, I don’t have the knowledge or expertise to offer a judgment.

    WRT the workout, I’ve never done it, but I like the idea of it. Most climbers are prone to too much too soon too often. A daily routine of low-load is something more climbers should consider.

    Alan Russell on #41008

    Cheers Scott, I’ll stick with the workout, but hold off on the supplements unless I find more compelling evidence.

    Seth Keena-Levin on #42182

    Hi Alan,

    I have been using a protocol very similar to Eric’s Daily FB protocol for myself and a number of my athletes I coach. Anecdotally I find daily interaction with a fingerboard an important part of adapting to specific fiber training, from fingerboard workouts to climbing. Just like going for an easy run or brisk walk on a day you are not doing intervals or Zone-2 runs, specifically and gently stressing the fingers helps them loosen and recover, so I think.

    Several climbers with more experience than I have noted that they suffer more finger injuries when not fingerboarding than when they do on a consistent basis. I too have experienced this. Again, all anecdotal evidence.

    With everything strength, start in small moderate doses and proceed with care and slowly. Try starting twice a week and building up from there.

    Good luck!

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