Recruitment fingerboarding

  • Creator
  • #10513

    So I am proceeding with the Advanced Rock Alpinist plan and I have done some of the Recruitment fingerboarding sessions so far.

    My questions is what if for some of the holds I cannot hold the 10seconds even with no weight?

    Should I do the reps with no weight as long as I can until I improve eventually or add a small step perhaps for one foot to barely touch and help a bit and use weight to get better at that specific hold until I can do it without the step?

Posted In: Climbing

  • Participant
    Frantik on #10514

    Also should I assign TSS for these sessions? They are not super taxing so treat them like general strength and about 50 TSS/hour ?

    Anonymous on #10523


    This is just my opinion having ran a cycle of it (ish)

    1) You should use a counterweight pulley system to dial in your weight. This will likely take you one or two sessions until you get maximum output without total failure. Rock Prodigy/Metolius sells these; ask your gym and I bet they would let you put one in if they don’t have something like it already. Or you could just get two pulleys and some spare cord and two carabiners.

    2) You should up the resistance as soon as you can complete all sets/reps with a little left in the tank

    3) For FBMH sessions I run for 10min then boulder v3s for 20-30m before partially just for fun so I assign ~60TSS, so you’re pretty close with the TSS assumption. FBR sessions are substantially longer so I up the session’s TSS to ~80-100 depending on what I do before.

    Steve House on #10563

    Adam is right, use a counterweight to remove body weight until the point you can do the hang for the required time. You could theoretically use a foot on a step, but that is not very measurable so it’s hard to progress the resistance.

    TSS: For fingerboard sessions there is not much global training effect, meaning the rest of your body isn’t affected much. So I generally don’t bother assigning a TSS. I just mark it as done. The training effect, and tracking of that effect, is more accurately done in your log/record of weight used.

    Let us know if you have any more questions. Good luck!

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