It was the end of our fourth day on the wall, and the final 5.13a pitch was giving me fits. Not because the climbing was all that hard, but because I was so tired. Fresh, well fed, and hydrated, I could have flashed the short traverse. But it was a different story now that I was exhausted and under the gun. -by Josh Wharton Matt Spohn and I had started up Muir Blast to El Corazon on May 15 with the goal of free climbing El Cap ground up—a goal I’d been working toward over the last few years. Everything…
Author: Josh Wharton
Add this simple and effective recruitment fingerboarding workout to your training to track and improve finger strength over time. Josh Wharton When I began climbing in the ’90s, training was the antithesis of hip. A wave of gym-bred youngsters with natural talent outperformed the overtrained and underfed sport climbers who had dominated the scene in the ’80s. Training suddenly seemed silly, and the neon tights especially embarrassing. Most people decided that if you wanted to get better at climbing, it was best simply to climb. Preferably as much as possible. This approach provided an uncertain path to improvement, and many…