Author: Josh Wharton

It was the end of our fourth day on the wall, and the final 5.13a pitch was giving me fits. Not because the climbing was all that hard, but because I was so tired. Fresh, well fed, and hydrated, I could have flashed the short traverse. But it was a different story now that I was exhausted and under the gun. -by Josh Wharton Matt Spohn and I had started up Muir Blast to El Corazon on May 15 with the goal of free climbing El Cap ground up—a goal I’d been working toward over the last few years. Everything…

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$39  This is the ideal program for rock climbers who have not engaged in true organized training for rock climbing. This plan will help you build the skills, strength, and endurance necessary for improved rock climbing performance. We also provide useful tips, tactics, and tricks that are critical to taking your climbing to the next level. Equipment: A climbing gym is mandatory, and it’s preferable, but not necessary that you have access to outdoor climbing as well. Timing: Expect three hard weeks, followed by a one week taper designed to create a “mini peak” useful for a road trip or…

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Add this simple and effective recruitment fingerboarding workout to your training to track and improve finger strength over time.-by Josh Wharton Here is our Recruitment Fingerboarding Log as a PDF, if you’re looking for that.Here is Josh’s Recruitment Hangboard Training Workout as a PDF for you to print and take to the gym.When I began climbing in the ’90s, training was the antithesis of hip. A wave of gym-bred youngsters with natural talent outperformed the overtrained and underfed sport climbers who had dominated the scene in the ’80s. Training suddenly seemed silly, and the neon tights especially embarrassing. Most people decided that if…

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$59  This eight week training plan is designed to improve intermediate and advanced climbing specific fitness, and create a peak performance period which can be utilized for an upcoming trip, or a specific goal route. It is ideal for climbers operating in the 5.10 to upper 5.12+ range. The plan operates on the assumption of a Monday through Friday work schedule. Required equipment: Simple notebook to use as a training log, access to a commercial climbing gym or home wall, fingerboard, and TRX kit. Access to outdoor climbing preferred, but not required. Trying Hard:A common skill amongst advanced and expert…

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