This is the ideal program for rock climbers who have not engaged in true organized training for rock climbing. This plan will help you build the skills, strength, and endurance necessary for improved rock climbing performance. We also provide useful tips, tactics, and tricks that are critical to taking your climbing to the next level.

The program begins with lots of climbing. As a relatively new climber, it’s critically important for you to build a movement base. If you were asked, “You have a left-hand gaston. Where should your right foot go?” or “You have a right hand under cling, and want to reach far to the left. What foot position gives you the longest reach?” could you immediately and easily answer? Most people can’t. During this first week, and throughout the program, there will be lots of climbing, so that you can begin to build a climbing movement vocabulary that will eventually become intuitive while moving over stone.

Expect three hard weeks, followed by a one week taper designed to create a “mini peak” useful for a road trip or sending a project.

This plan is based on your RPE, or “Rate of Perceived Exertion,” where workout intensities are guided by how hard you are working based on your perception of effort (how hard the workout feels to you) rather than by heart rate. 

Whether you use an RPE-based or heart rate-based training plan, we recommend that you use a chest-strap heart rate monitor and GPS watch to log all your training.