#Alpineprinciples This video could save your life. Why? Because most mountain accidents happen on the descent. In “Fail Well,” the third installment of the Alpine Principles video series, we discuss why failure is important and detail how to descend well. Topics covered include how to err on the right side of survival; what kills descending […]
Climbing mountains is incredibly dangerous. I believe long-term success as an alpinist should be defined as survival to old age. Alpinism and all its component sports—rock, ice, and mixed climbing; ski touring; and ski mountaineering—are a continuous series of life-and-death decisions that begin with planning and end when you finally step off the mountain. Technical […]
The spring ski-touring season is close at hand. And as we’ve seen a surge of interest from our athletes, both coached and those following plans, in prepping for long ski tours across the globe, many have asked me for my hut-to-hut ski touring gear list. I developed this list over the past decade spent guiding […]
Before we talk about 2018 and what a new year means to each of us personally and athletically, I want to be clear about one thing: Anything I accomplished, any success I achieved as a climber, and indeed my very survival, was enabled by the training I did. I have no special athletic talent. In […]
In this video, Uphill Athlete co-founder Steve House demonstrates how to get off an ice climb with a naked A-thread rappel anchor. By “A-thread,” he means the rappel will be oriented vertically, not horizontally. And by “naked,” he means he will not leave any sling material behind. The advantage of the horizontal orientation is that […]
The Figure 4 is a core-intensive ice climbing move you can practice in the gym and then apply to mixed routes outside. These exercises will get you started.
Steve House shares a workout for training lock-off strength for ice climbing. The lock-off is a critical skill, and this routine will help you improve it.
The dreaded pump. Every climber has been there. When it comes to training for ice climbing, here is a tried-and-true way to improve your grip strength.
Steve House shares his packing methodology for a one-night overnight alpine climbing objective. Beginning with nutrition and hydration, he runs through energy food (waffles, gels, and chews); water and tips for keeping it from freezing; recovery snacks and drinks; and suggestions for dinner and breakfast. Gear-wise he covers his preferred stove; essentials like sun protection, […]
Mixing power and endurance training in the same workout can be a mistake if it not done correctly. Why? A workout which places the strength and/or power training after what is already an exhaustive endurance session, is not going to give the best gains in strength or power. If all you want to do is […]
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