Author: Josh Wharton

It was the end of our fourth day on the wall, and the final 5.13a pitch was giving me fits. Not because the climbing was all that hard, but because I was so tired. Fresh, well fed, and hydrated, I could have flashed the short traverse. But it was a different story now that I was exhausted and under the gun. -by Josh Wharton Matt Spohn and I had started up Muir Blast to El Corazon on May 15 with the goal of free climbing El Cap ground up—a goal I’d been working toward over the last few years. Everything…

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A rock climbing training plan designed to introduce newer climbers to organized training. This plan focuses on developing essential skills, strength, and endurance, while giving you ample opportunities to continue to build a solid base of efficient climbing movement.

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Add this simple and effective recruitment fingerboarding workout to your training to track and improve finger strength over time. Josh Wharton Here is our Recruitment Fingerboarding Log as a PDF, if you’re looking for that.Here is Josh’s Recruitment Hangboard Training Workout as a PDF for you to print and take to the gym.When I began climbing in the ’90s, training was the antithesis of hip. A wave of gym-bred youngsters with natural talent outperformed the overtrained and underfed sport climbers who had dominated the scene in the ’80s. Training suddenly seemed silly, and the neon tights especially embarrassing. Most people decided that…

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