I’m needing some advice on a wrist injury. My left wrist is very crunchy – feels inside the joint (Radius Locality I think). I mostly feel pain when climbing using pinches and slopers (particularly when my thumb is out). I’ve been to two physios and one Osteo over the last few months. They can’t seem to pin point a particular muscle or tendon. Feels close to the joint – orig I thought it was closer to the ulna. They don’t think it’s anything major.

Background – I was following TFTNA for 7 months and was quite pleased that I had shown restraint and was getting stronger and fitter without injuries.

I moved house 5 or 6 months into training and my Box (for step ups, Bulgarian splits etc) was of a different height. The change in setup (too-high) contributed to straining my hip flexor and also getting sore lower back. Coupled with running heaps.

All felt quite minor but long story short I ramped up my bouldering (once per week to 2-3 times) to compensate for skipping some strength sessions and I picked up my wrist injury. No particular injury caused it. But climbing my hardest over subsequent sessions was making it worse.

Osteo just hurt – a lot. And after two sessions “realised that it wasn’t just that it needed loosening up”

Physio has had me doing wrist extensions and curls. Plus stretching. He said I could climb so long as pain is only 3/10 and doesn’t linger afterwards. I tape my wrist for support.

I followed their advice. I can now do wrist extension with 4kg but still very crunchy (feels nasty but pain is manageable). After the injury I could barely do 1kg.

The improvement since has plateaued and I’ve stopped the physio sessions as the massage wasn’t really doing a lot and the prescription was to keep doing what I’m doing. After some research I have also started doing rice bucket exercises along with the stretches. I get pain (very manageable – near radius) when rotating left wrist (in rice) anti-clockwise 360 degrees (pain from 4-3 o’clock.) clockwise is fine.

Would love to gain some insight from anyone who has experienced this before.

My training has suffered a lot. Kind of written off this season

Thanks

Dave