This is the ideal program for any rock climber who has not engaged in organized training for rock climbing. With this plan, you will build and combine the skills, strength, and endurance necessary to truly improve your rock climbing performance.

The program includes lots of climbing. As a relatively new climber, it’s critical you build a strong movement base. If you were asked, “You have a left-hand gaston. Where should your right foot go?” or “You have a right hand under cling, and want to reach far to the left. What foot position gives you the longest reach?” could you immediately and easily answer? Most people can’t. So during this first week, and throughout the program, there is going to be lots of climbing, so that you can begin to build a climbing movement vocabulary that will become intuitive as you move over stone.

Expect three hard weeks, followed by a one week taper designed to create a “mini peak” useful for a road trip or sending a project. If you want to extend the plan, simply cycle through it again.

This plan is based on your RPE, or “Rate of Perceived Exertion,” where workout intensities are guided by how hard you are working based on your perception of effort (how hard the workout feels to you) rather than by heart rate.

Whether you use an RPE-based or heart rate-based training plan, we recommend that you use a chest-strap heart rate monitor and GPS watch to log all your training.