[julie.morter]

julie.morter on December 4, 2020 at 3:48 pm · in reply to: Mixed and Ice plan: tool hang reps confusion #47855

We ended up doing both, so incline pull-up lock off stuff with a trx (instead of rings) at PE-1, then dead hangs on tools at PE -1 (weighted two had), then PE on both (which was weighted one hand hangs for the tools). We changed reps to seconds like you did. The incline pull up/twist locks feel like really effective training and at least in our setup, would be hard to do with tools. The deadhangs work grip strength, but not really that lock-off/pull-up strength.
However, when I went to the next week it talked about ice tools as a separate item, so that is what made me ask the question. Sounds like no one has any idea and everyone is doing their own variety!

[julie.morter]

julie.morter on December 3, 2020 at 10:41 pm · in reply to: Mixed and Ice plan: tool hang reps confusion #47792

I read all of these replies, and I am still a bit confused.
In the Specific Strength and Core exercises, do the Primary Exercises (PE) just include the ones off the rings, or do they also include the ice tool ones from the video?
At the end of Specific Strength and Core#3 it discusses ice tool hangs separately at the end, but it only seems to be talking about hangs, not the full progression shown in the video. Does that mean that the set of PE exercises (PE-1 and PE) are done for both the ring and then the ice tool exercises, followed by some straight deadhangs at the end? Or is the section about the ice tools covering off everything you need to do from tools.

[julie.morter]

julie.morter on March 26, 2020 at 10:47 am · in reply to: Continuous Climbing At Home #39864

So even for the endurance building you would only have about 7 minutes of actual hanging, or would you repeat any of those for a couple rounds? (go through the 6 reps on each hold more than once)

[julie.morter]

julie.morter on March 22, 2020 at 7:17 pm · in reply to: at-home solutions for climbing-specific training sessions #39738

I am having the same problem- not a tone of advice here, but I am halfway through the intermediate training plan. We have been hang boarding every 2 days and it seems to be going ok, although we do think that to really build power we might even need an extra day off in each week? But we aren’t building endurance, which isn’t great for when outdoors starts.
I also like that lower intensity but less rest hang board routine you are mentioning and we are thinking of just making the best substitutions we could: CC workouts would be the ARC one, limit bouldering might be the low end of PE, regular fingerboard repeaters would be the high end of PE and then max hangs would be max hangs. We would just follow the schedule with this substitution. I can let you know how it goes in 10 weeks, ha!
But we have never done a training program before so to be honest we no longer have any idea what we are doing and mostly expect the next month to be somewhat lost effort for training and best case will just be keeping what we have. We don’t have enough knowledge to re-jig this whole training plan into a fingerboard routine.

I do think we would need to add more pull-ups in, maybe on the bouldering (but not bouldering) day, because that lock-off strength will go away fast.

[julie.morter]

julie.morter on February 7, 2020 at 11:04 am · in reply to: Continous Climbing Duration #37718

Thanks Scott!
I have never done a training program before, so some of this might be just a case of understanding what the purpose of these various sessions are.

With your feedback in mind, are the ‘hard’ days you mentioned the finger board workouts that start in 2 weeks? From what I saw, even the weekend mileage days are focused on technique and drills on easy climbing. My take is that they were focused on getting better, not stronger.
Is that correct, or should there be any focus on physically hard or tiring climbing in those mileage days?