[Andy Traylor]

Andy Traylor on May 19, 2017 at 9:11 am · in reply to: How to balance climbing and running #4943

Thanks, Scott. Indeed, periodization seems to be the key. Appreciate all the insight on these forums!

[Andy Traylor]

Andy Traylor on May 16, 2017 at 12:40 pm · in reply to: How to balance climbing and running #4897

Even though this thread is a bit old, I’ll add my experience here. I’ve been interested in this topic for the past few years as I’ve included more running in my training and focused on increasing my running performance.

My background: I’ve been climbing (boulder, sport, trad, aid, ice) for 12 years consistently. I’ve run inconsistently over the course of those years but in the last 3 years, I’ve focused more on running specifically, following various training plans and eventually working up to 50K distances.

I think it really helps to have a history in either climbing or running – a large background of experience (skill-wise and understanding your body) and conditioning (building tendons over a decade). I do not have that history with running, so I spend much more time (3-4 months) training for running if I want to perform well. With climbing, I can whip myself into relatively good shape in 3-4 weeks. Over the past few years, I’ve alternated climbing-specific training with running-specific training with decent success. I pick objectives (races or routes) and categorize my training focus a year ahead of time. I’ve tried two different tactics:

1) Spend ~90% of training time focused on the objective’s discipline. The remaining 10% is spent on maintaining a level of baseline fitness for the other discipline. This can work for either climbing or running and usually ends up alternating between the two in blocks of 3 months.

2) This tactic works if I have a running objective, followed closely by a climbing objective. Spend ~75% of training time running, while the remaining time is spent maintaining a higher fitness level for climbing (compared to tactic 1). Once the running objective is finished, spend 3 weeks focusing 90% of training time climbing.

In 2016, I used Tactic 1 with some success. In March of 2016, I redpointed a 13a at Smith Rock after 3 months of dedicated climbing training. I maintained around 10 miles a week of running during this period, which was around 10% of total training time. I cut out all running for the two weeks I dedicated to working and sending the route.

Next, I switched to about 90% of my training time focused on running.

June 2016: Ran a trail half marathon in 1:48 (~8:20 pace).
July 2016: Ran a relay race as an ultra team, cumulative miles: 40, average pace: 8:40.
August 2016: Ran another relay race, cumulative miles: 20, average pace: 7:45.
November 2016: Ran the Oregon Silver Falls 50K in 5:46 (~11:00 pace)

Following this race, I took the rest of November and December off, then started a new cycle in January. This time around, I used Tactic 2, with 75% running and 25% climbing.

January 2017: Redpointed 12b
February 2017: Redpointed 12c
8 April 2017: Ran the Zion 55K in 6:40 (~11:50 pace). Following this race, I spent 2.5 weeks with 90% of time spent training for climbing.
27 April 2017: Climbed Black Orpheus and Levitation 29 in a day (20 pitches up to 11c). Two days later redpointed a 12c and a 12a in the same day.

In 2016, I sent 5.13 and ran a 50K in the same year. My primary goal this year was to redpoint a 5.12 sport route and run a 50K in the same month, which I was very happy to accomplish. I think it’s possible to send a 12+/13- climbing route and run a 50K around my previous paces in the same month, but it would require very focused training and a ton of work. I’m sure if I had a decade of ultra running experience, refining both disciplines at the same time would be a little easier. I’m interested to hear if others are pushing their personal limits in both disciplines and how closely spaced the performance periods can be.