I thought I’d jump back in here and add to my own questiom.
I’ve done some research, read some papers, etc. and what I can say is that early in a strength training program (or early in the traning life of an athlete) strength training adaptations seem to be mostly 1) neuromuscular, and 2) involve shifts in muscle fiber type (for example from more “fast twitch” oriented to more “endurance” oriented.” The clear gains in strength early in training can not be attributed to what little hypertrophy or hyperplasia has occcured.
Now that’s interesting from the perspective of climbers. Unless we are talking about finger strength specifically (and that’s not my goal here) the aim is usually to increase strength as much as possible while increasing mass a little as possible. So whatever changes we can promote that do not involve hypertrophy are positive. As far as I can tell, that mainly involves not lifting to failure–maintaining strict form, no shaking, no complete inability to do one more rep, and so on, just as promoted by UA. That might prevent the most absolute gains in strength, but it will also limit hypertrophy. The way forward for Uphill Athletes?
As to targeting more “endurance” or more “strength” by biasing the strength traning protocols one way or the other (higher weight/low reps vs low weight/high reps)…I’m just not sure.
On one hand, it makes sense to tailor a strength program to the specific force, duration, speed, joint angle, requirements of one’s sport.
On the other hand, I wonder if it’s not more effecient to do endurance training (like uphill hiking or running) for endurance, and do stength training (like squats or pulls ups) for strength.
Anyway, it’s an interesting ongoing discussion.