[mattmay3s]

Seems like a number of us are heading for Denali next Summer so thought it might be worth it having its own thread so we can share questions, tips etc. Also a few who have already done it that can provide useful insight I’m sure.

I leave UK on 20 May and the plan has us being in Talkeetna (via LA and Anchorage) for 22 May – I’ll be the jetlagged one looking for coffee! 3 of us Brits are booked through a great UK company called 360Expeds but will be joining AAI once we get to Alaska.

Denali has been on my list for some time and I’m stoked that I’m finally training for it.

I’ve already started asking @MARK questions abut introducing sled pulls into the training as I’ve never used a pulk.

Look forward to hearing about other folks’ plans.

Topic

[Edgar Carby]

Edgar Carby on November 17, 2021 at 8:13 am #59418

@nate thanks! so much good insight here.

Living in Mississippi, I don’t have access to a truly steep long hill so I will probably never be in a situation where the terrain required me to rest step.

What do you think about rest steps with a heavy pack (~70#) and double boots on a 12″ box? I think that’s probably my only way to get 60min + of rest stepping.

[MarkPostle]

MarkPostle on November 18, 2021 at 6:01 am #59493

Edgar- I second some of Nates thoughts in his earlier post, I don’t actually rest step in the classic sense when dragging the sled for the reasons he mentioned. (I don’t pressure breathe either) Don’t tell anyone or they’ll probably kick me out of the secret denali guide cool kids club. I do rest step when up high and not dragging the piggy around. I’ve never really found a super good way to simulate this motion in training as its seems so specific to altitude and its limitation. The amount of weight I would have to carry to really simulate this 400-500’/hour of vertical gain kind of pace would likely be more than I could hold standing up without risking injury. (For reference the heavy weighted ME pack carries with 50-60 pounds I’ve done I am gaining about 2000’+ per hour) This is one of the rare cases where I wouldn’t worry to terribly much about training specificity and if you build the aerobic base, do the prescribed weighed pack carries and strength work you’ll be fine. As such I find the single leg movement in the Chamfit and or things like single leg box step ups/down quite useful in the strength realm as opposed to bilateral strength movements like some of the 2 leg squats as they’re much less specific and don’t have similar balance demands for getting established on the “new” foot placement. I have prescribed things like 60 min of weighted box steps before in training but more as a “last resort” mode for folks that don’t have access to other ways to get their vertical in but not so much as a reststep practice. That said there may be some ancillary benefit there. Just tell your Denali guide to kick the trail in with perfectly flat steps so it best simulates your training on the box!

[speroandrew]

speroandrew on December 4, 2021 at 5:28 pm #60251

Can we dive more in depth of the practicing for a heavy carry on Denali? If I understand correctly, do the general strength and threshold training and don’t worry too much about the weight? Seems odd, maybe I misunderstood. I’ve been using the 24 week mountaineering plan and have been adding in a heavy backpack on ski tours but staying under threshold..

[Nate Emerson]

Nate Emerson on December 5, 2021 at 6:04 am #60270

Andrew, we can bring this up on the Zoom call and discuss further.
But the simplistic answer is that you’ll progress over time with the pack carries, and the overall theme will transition from general to specific. You’ll see this clearly when you look at the 24 week plan from start to finish.
The general training supports the specific training. General training prepares athletes to do more with their specific training. Specific training by itself is critical before a goal or event, but without a big base of support gained through general training, an athlete can’t expect to get the same benefit from the specific period. There is a limit to how much we’ll adapt to a cycle of similar programming, which is why we’ll cycle through and progress from general to specific.
Currently, the training is general, not specific. So it won’t resemble the “event” too much right now.
Heavy carries will definitely be part of the programming. They’re planned to start when we are converting from general training to specific training, just like the 24 week plan. We see the most benefit for mountaineers when these are performed in the specific period, in the final few months leading up to the climb. The general training will allow you to perform these at a higher intensity and carry a heavier load, which you’ll appreciate when it comes time to put on the heavy pack on the Kahiltna.

[Ryan Barr]

Ryan Barr on December 5, 2021 at 3:43 pm #60290

I will be on the May 17th departure for Denali with RMI. Looking forward to the trip and getting into the training plan.

[Emanuel Rohss]

Emanuel Rohss on January 18, 2022 at 10:05 pm #62322

Is anyone going to Denali without a guide?

[xenab.mansoor]

xenab.mansoor on January 19, 2022 at 2:32 pm #62344

Hi all, just finalized my dates, I will be climbing Denali with Alpine Ascents starting May 28th and so pretty sure will bump into some of you either going up or coming down 🙂

I was wondering if anyone had any tips on where around Seattle to practice pulling sleds? Any trails that other people have already trialed? Getting serious about the climb mentally and physically… Going to be a great adventure!!!

[kazu.ishidera]

kazu.ishidera on January 21, 2022 at 9:43 am #62432

Hi Emanuel, my buddy and I are planning to climb from May 23rd to June 17th without a guide.

Xneab, I was recommended to take the Denali Expedition Seminar by my friend who has summited Denali without a guide and also by the Uphill Coches for the climb. I am going to take one from IMG from Feb 19th to Feb 22nd. I have done a fair amount of winter mountaineering in the North West. But, nothing in the scale of Denali.

[ericpb]

ericpb on January 24, 2022 at 10:57 am #62495

I’m having this same problem.
I have these new Oly Mons for Denli, but my BD Saberthooth Pro dont’ fit? do I get a bigger toe bail? or do I get someting to convert it to a strap?

I found this, but there does not seem to be an answer? https://uphillathlete.com/forums/topic/oly-mons-cube-crampon-compatibility/

[MarkPostle]

MarkPostle on January 25, 2022 at 10:18 am #62535

If its the width/shape of the wire bail that’s the primary issue you can swap out the bail with a wide or narrow one that BD sells separately. Its a bummer but not all combinations of crampons and boots work great together so a little modification isn’t super unusual. There is also some variance depending on boot size so what worked great for one person that has small feet might not be great for another person that has big feet but is trying the same brand of boot and crampon. Yet another thing I am going to standardize when I’m in charge, right after I make all USB/data/phone charging cables the same and symmetrical.

[Moiez K]

Moiez K on November 18, 2022 at 8:08 pm #72739

I’m 120 lbs, so I might have the same problem at Denali and Aconcagua. Would the La Sportiva G2 Evo boots be adequate for both those mountains?

[TLoftus]

TLoftus on November 19, 2022 at 4:47 am #72743

Moiez, if you go with the G2 Evo you will need to have overboots as well, or at least they would be strongly recommended (Denali). So while auto crampons work fine with that boot, they may not with the overboot. Oly Mons and Scarpa 8000 boots don’t need overboots, so when crampon fit is dialed in you’re all set. It should also be noted that there are two versions of the La Sportiva boot–Oly Mons Cube and the Cube s, the difference being in the toe, with the Cube S not compatible with ski bindings. The Cube S is a better fit with the toe bails on BD and Grivel. I’m going to Denali this coming May and will be using the Scarpa Phantom 8000, which I chose to replace my Phantom 6000 boots which have been great. I have size 48 feet and the toe bails on my Grivel G-12s don’t fit the giant toe on these new boots, so I’m going with the strap on toe and the auto heel. Cheers from Vermont

[Anonymous]

Anonymous on November 19, 2022 at 11:32 am #72758

Moiez, G2s will be fine on Acon for most folks but you’ll want overboots on Denali with them as mentioned above.

[Moiez K]

Moiez K on November 19, 2022 at 6:51 pm #72761

That’s very useful to know, given that footwear is such a critical component in climbing. Thanks for the explanation, TLoftus and Mark.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous on November 20, 2022 at 8:25 am #72766

Why Sportiva named the Cube that is NOT ski compatible the Cube S is beyond me.