[joanna.bialous]

Ho everybody! Fist of all Steve and Scott thanks for the book it’s a great tool! I’m just beginning with planning of my training according to suggestions in TFNA and I have couple of doubts and maybe those of you who have done some of the training already can help me. When Steve speaks of the weekly training hours do they include just aerobic training or they are total of the hours you spend weekly/yearly on training (aerobic plus strength plus climbing).

Second doubt is, how can I calulcate 25% of long zone 1 training in first weeks. If I can dedicate 10 h per week for training as a goal and I should reduce my volume by 50 percent in first weeks, should it be 25% of 5h and fill the remaining time with other activities, or 25 % of the targeted 10h and fill with other activities so that they all together dont exceede the 50% of the targeted training.

I need help! Any comments would be much appreciated !!

Topic

[Anonymous]

Anonymous on February 12, 2018 at 7:05 am #8080

Joana,

Consistency is key in logging hours, but it should be a cumulative tally of activities that produce a training benefit (i.e. aerobic, strength, climbing, but not rehab/prehab like dedicated stretching sessions).

Second, calculate your training volumes weekly. For example, if you are doing 50% of your volume as aerobic, and your total volume progression for 4 weeks is 4, 6, 8, 4 (consolidation week), your aerobic time would be 2, 3, 4, 2, and the rest of the time should be other workouts. If you were doing two runs or hikes per week and you wanted your long session to be at least 25% of your weekly volume, you would do 1/1, 1/2, 1.5/2.5, 1/1, (or something like that) As an aside I’m not saying that volume is correct, it’s just easy math this way.

Hope that helps.

-Adam

[Anonymous]

Anonymous on February 12, 2018 at 8:36 am #8081

Joanna:
When calculating both the weekly progression in training hours and when calculating the lengths of the aerobic workouts please use just the volume of aerobic training. As an example: If you are starting with 5 hours of training/week as you say, roughly two of those hours will be dedicated to strength. That would leave 3 hours for aerobic training. 25% of of that would be 45 minutes for the longer aerobic workout.

Time is a fairly good indicator of training load for an aerobic workout like a run. So we can progress the aerobic training load simply by increasing the time spent doing them. But time is not a good measure of training load when it comes to strength trainingSo we do not progress the strength training simply by making them longer. In our simple strength training plans we progress the strength load mainly by increasing the weight that is being lifted.

I hope this helps,
Scott

[joanna.bialous]

joanna.bialous on February 12, 2018 at 4:09 pm #8088

Thank you to both of you!! It all seems much clearer now. Scott thank you for your explications. I feel so happy and honored that you personally cleared my doubts. I have your book and the log and they are such great tools! And I just started long term training for Dent Du Geant and maybe some other summit in September. I still have much reading to do, but could not wait to start training and planning already.

All the best! You guys make such a great work!!!!!
Joanna

[Alan Russell]

Alan Russell on April 21, 2018 at 7:47 pm #9478

Hi,

I’ve got a similar question that I’m wondering if you can help with. I’m undergoing a physio program following a knee injury last year which involves leg strength exercises and gradual increases in running and in the last month my physio has suggested it would be ok for me to start climbing, so I’ve tried to make a plan for something like the Transition period, but I’m wondering if I am spending too much time on strength / climbing, and I would be better spending more time on aerobic exercise / resting. For info., what I’m considering as my week 1 of the Transitions Period had around 0.75 h of jogging / walking and around 1 hour of leg strengthening for my physio. program, 2 hours of climbing (2 x 2 x 30 min ARCs), around 0.75 h of core + upper body general strength (2 sessions per week) + maybe an hour of other aerobic, so a total of around 5.5 hours. I joined TP in August and my training hours for September to March were 151, which scales to an annual of 259, giving an average of almost 5 hours per week, which would suggest a starting volume of about 2.5 hours per week, which seems quite low, and wouldn’t allow for the inclusion of the core and general strength, or the climbing.

I’m now at week 4 of the Transition Period, and though I feel stronger, a problem I’m facing is trying to fit everything in, particularly as the leg exercises and climbing sessions are gym based, so involve a bit of travel time, and being restricted to their opening hours. Also, I am finding that the general strength sessions and climbing sessions are concentrated over the weekend, due to insufficient time on other days (due to e.g. work and physio training) and that as the duration of these sessions has increased (following the progressions for General Strength in TFNA and the ARC progression on UA), it’s getting even harder to fit it all in, and I’m wondering if I’ve started off too hard, and should cut back, and, if so, what. I’m guessing the climbing / general strength may be best, but not sure which / how much, so any guidance would be gratefully received.

For info., assuming I reach the required fitness levels, my climbing goals are mountaineering and scrambles in the Scottish mountains up to UK Diff level (which I think is about USA 5.3), multi-pitch climbing up to 5.8, sport up to 5.11.

Best regards,

Alan