Advanced Rock Alpinist Training Plan

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  • #35025

    Hi everyone,

    I have purchased the Advanced Rock Alpinist Training Plan and I really like it because it combines climbing and aerobic training. I have two questions about it, maybe you can help me:

    • It appears like there is no „power period“ in the plan (only “power endurance”) – why is that so?
    • I have found to have additional time and energy to spend on training. How is it best spent? Aerobic training is clear –> add more volume. However, how should I spend it on climbing related workouts. One additional ARC session in training block 1 and block 2? Add bouldering?

    Thank you!

    Best regards


Posted In: Alpinism

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    Anonymous on #35097

    Thanks for buying one of our plans and for writing to us with your questions.

    The answer to your question is that 8 weeks is too short of a time to cycle through all the major training periods. As a consequence we use power endurance training which will have some power training effect while it is more specific in its development of endurance.

    So, 8 weeks is a compromise and not a fully developed long term program which would be 12-16 weeks at least. The problem is that most climbers will not want to train for such a long term program so we shortened this one.


    jfgallego2 on #39671

    Hi everyone,

    I have a follow-up question regarding the training plan discussed in this thread. Where does this plan fall into the periods described in the book? I started following the Technical Mountaineering Objective base period laid out in the book. The goal this year is to climb in the Winds and Bugaboos in July and to do The Grand Traverse in August. If I do the 16 weeks of the base period, will this plan fall into the specific period? Or is it sensible to merge it with the last few weeks of the base period?

    Notes: I already have a good aerobic base and I have been alpine climbing (up to 5.10 in alpine rock) consistently for the past 4 summers. Lately, I’ve been ski touring a lot too, averaging 12h of physical activity per week with a combination of aerobic exercise, gym climbing, and strength training.


    anram_87 on #68723

    Good morning;

    I don’t know if this topic is still alive, but I have a question concerning this plan and the 16-Week Eiger North Face Training Plan, I would like to know which are the main differences and similarities among them? and which one is better to prepare for alpine climbing. I guess that the 16-Week as being longer has more long term rewards, but if someone has experience with both of them and can explain it would be great.


    Tobias on #70183


    I would love to have a longer rock alpine plan.
    I find the transition from rock to ice tools easy, so that’s why I think it would be a nice all year round training plan basis.

    Or is there maybe a way to easily adapt the Eiger Plan and Swap training X with Y?


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